My husband Ken and I (Lesley) live in the beautiful Blue Mountains in NSW Australia. We have 2 adult daughters and one son In law. We retired, downsized and moved from the western suburbs to our current location 2016. I say retired however we both still work part-time. My husband and I were married in 1968 and are proud of the fact we are still together today. We are average people who have experienced good and bad in our life times and can say we have learnt a lot over the years.
We are in love with our current situation as we have each other and are surrounded by the natural wonders found in the mountains. We have great neighbours, our girls live within a half hour drive. We own our home and we have some part-time income to supplement our part pension. Our lives are busy and interesting. We both have hobbies and we both like living together. Ive heard this is not always the case when partners retire. We did both work together in our own business for approx 18 years prior to retirement so I guess we were pretty used to each other by then.
We have a meaningful group of friends who fill our lives with fun, interest and drama of course.
Why I chose to blog
I like to write down my thoughts, I like to have an opinion, I like to learn from others. I like to keep my mind active.
These are the reasons I chose to start this blog. I am not particularly profound in any one subject, I am certainly not highly educated nor am I specifically interested in any one thing. My childhood was not fantastic but not horrific. I married at age 16 which is usually intriguing to others. I have dealt with and been surrounded by illness including mental illness from a young age. I have worked continuously from age 14 and have experienced many highs and many lows. I have seen a lot of changes in the world during my 69 years. I have to say I am quite interested in human behaviour on a basic level. I have no education in this area and therefore no expertise but I have experience and I am happy to talk about it. I also find talking or writing in this way very healing and a good way of putting things into perspective. I do fear loneliness and isolation in my aging person and I am hoping that blogging will keep me in touch with the world if and when I do end up alone. I hope to engage with others via my blog and look forward to reading other blogs, hearing other opinions and hopefully providing and receiving some laughs through the process.
Leaving Albany, we intended to spend a few days at Esperance before heading home. However, the forecast for Esperance for the next couple of days was dismal, so instead, we decided to visit the town of Hyden inland, about 345 km. It was a long day’s drive, starting in drizzling and then heavy rain. We had to pass through the heavy storms predicted for Esperance later that day. The drive was uneventful and passed through wheat farms, forests, small country towns and lakes. We took our time and arrived mid-afternoon. The town is part of the Wheatbelt and has a population of under 400 people. It is the home of several well-known tourist attractions. We parked on the main road alongside an open area with an array of iron sculptures depicting the area’s history. They were unique structures mainly made up of iron and tin. Unusual and difficult to describe, check out the photos below. After browsing, we referred to wikicamps for a nearby camp. Setting up quickly, we headed off to the main tourist attraction Wave Rock.
This is one of Australia’s most recognisable landforms. A massive granite rock rising 15 metres from the ground and stretching more than 100 metres in length. Earlier in our trip, we had seen a smaller version of a wave rock, Pildappa rock, near the Gawler Ranges in SA, which we were amazed at. This one is much bigger, and the wave effect is quite pronounced. Hopefully, the photos will give you an idea of the angle. This curved cliff face has been shaped by weathering and water erosion, undercutting its base and leaving a rounded overhang. The deep grey, black and sandy striped wave and the varying colours of Black, grey, and sandy appearing as stripes in the rock are caused by minerals being washed down the face of the rock. It is possible to walk the perimeter or climb the rock and walk across the top surface. You will see great views from the top and some interesting rock piles. It is spectacular and very photogenic. The afternoon was turning cold, so we headed back to our camp and readily started up our pit fire once again.
The following morning, we headed out to see Hippo’s Yawn, a 12.6-metre granite rock that looks like a large hippopotamus yawning intensely. Further along, we visited Mulka’s Cave. There is an aboriginal legend associated with this area. The link will explain the story in more detail than I can do here. www.australiasgoldenoutback.com This finished our morning, and we took off for the four-hour drive to Esperance
Our Campsite Walking down from top of Wave RockWave Rock
On the way, I had considerable trouble finding a caravan park with vacancies. At the last minute, we pulled into a caravan park in Esperance, which, luckily, had a site left. A light rain was starting, so we hurriedly unpacked. We had little food then, so we quickly drove into town. From everything I had read, I was expecting a substantially sized town, but what we saw that night seemed small and old.
As I had to complete some work, I left Ken to do the sightseeing the next day. Having not been impressed the night before, I did not think I was missing out on anything. It turns out I was mistaken. He was impressed with the town and spent a full touristy day. The following morning, he took me along the Ocean Drive to see the highlights. It was simply one of the most excellent views of beaches we had to date, and we had seen many coming down the coastline. The easy access to the views and the rocky islands dotting the ocean on nearly every turn in the road makes the town different from others. The bright turquoise beaches had paved walking trails along the side of the whole area. The many lookouts and accessible beaches were exceptional. Returning to town, it was not surprising to see many beautiful homes sitting on the high side of the road taking advantage of spectacular views over the ocean. I realised just how big the town was. There was also a beautifully maintained esplanade running the whole length of the town. The design beckoned holidaymakers to stroll and picnic along the water’s edge. Relaxing and appreciating the peaceful surroundings.
In addition to the stunning coastline, Ken visited Esperance Stonehenge, a full-size replica of the UK original. Constructed of 137 stones of Esperance Pink Granite locally quarried.
The structure boasts a magical experience as the circular shape amplifies sound, and the natural stone provides an energetic feel. I am not sure Ken felt that; however, he was amazed by the stone’s height and intricate set-up. He was impressed that it was built to align with the Summer Solstices in Esperance.
More Photos here
Alas, it was time to start the journey home. Heading up to Norseman was a pleasant but uneventful drive.
Norseman to Balladonia- We came across Newman’s Rocks while looking for a free camp. This camp has no facilities, but we had our trusty shovel on hand. It was a lovely area with plenty of space. We were able to find a spot a fair way back from the road. Walking to the nearby granite outcrop, there is a small water dam where the camels come to drink. The surrounding area and the footprint in the mud prove this is the case; however, we were not lucky enough to see them. The night air was cooling, and a pit fire was in order. We settled in front of the fire, and less than an hour later, we hurriedly moved the chairs inside. The rain was on and off all night, but no problem once we settled in the trailer. The night was quiet, with the light rain soothing to the ears.
Endeavouring to get to the Bunda Cliffs for our next free camp, we started early.
We should have made it to the cliffs but did not consider the time change. We pulled into a caravan park at Eucla. $30 a night and $1 for a 5-minute shower. Funny how our perception of time can be so wrong. I figured at least $4 for a shower but realised 5 minutes is ample time, so I only had to pay $1. It was an accessible campsite with a lovely sunset. A light rain joined us but did not hinder Ken’s ever-increasing ability to come up with various meals every night. By this stage, we were tired of unpacking and packing, and the colder nights and heavy dew every morning made it a little more complicated. Having said this, I must praise Ken for his consistency in handling the meals and the washing up every day. I do not love this part of camping, so he graciously relieved me of the task. I did not expect it to last for the whole trip, though.
A good night’s sleep and we were on the Nullarbor again. Passing through the Village Border into SA, we again hit the treeless plains. We both agreed that this was the most serene and peaceful part of the drive. There is nothing but the road, the sun, some great Beatles songs, and our idle chatter.
We had heard about a vehicle cemetery nearby, but the information was sketchy. We had a rough idea of where to head down the highway. As usual no reception and no local map, so we turned left onto a dirt road leading to an old homestead. The road was tragic for an AWD vehicle. We carried on until we had to turn left onto another equally tragic road and decided it was way too risky if we were to break down. A long walk back to the highway would have been our only option. Lowering the tyres made for a slightly quicker return to the highway. While mastering the rocky road, Ken remembered another turn earlier on the highway, which was a named road that was possibly the correct turn-off. Time was hindering us, but what the heck? We decided to go back. A few kilometres along, we came to a more promising turn. Another gravel road but in much better condition, so we took off and were rewarded with our desired destination, the Koonalda Homestead near the Old Eyre Highway. Without the back story, we assume this was a pit stop years ago before the new Eyre Highway was constructed.
The homestead is well preserved as its last occupants were as recent as 1988. See the photo below for more detail. The inside of the house is old and disused, but remnants of life are evident. The old lino on the floors, what I believed was an early Kelvinator fridge, some iron cots and other pieces of interest scattered throughout. The outside fences are still standing, and the shade of surrounding trees gives a pleasant outlook. As the old highway was abandoned, so were the old vehicles along the route.
Rather than leaving them strewn around, someone in their wisdom bought them here to rest with their fellow road mates. About 50 or so old broken-down cars, trucks, and other junk exist. Often still distinguishable but passed their use by date. We were both happy to have made an effort to see this site. It helped put all the old comments about the difficulties of travelling the Nullarbor into perspective. Indeed, the road travelled today is a vast improvement.
We drove on with the intention of flying the drone over the Bunda Cliffs and then moving on quickly to Ceduna. Happily travelling along, we remembered several pull-offs; a couple were formal lookouts and a couple of dirt road entries to the cliffs. We passed a couple and thought the next would be our stop. Amazingly we realised we were heading away from the cliff’s edge and suddenly questioned whether we had missed the turn. We discussed turning back and decided against it. We were maybe 30 km from the Nullarbor roadhouse and needed to get petrol. Disappointed but resigned, we got our petrol, glanced at the time, and noted we would be lucky to reach Ceduna that night. Having this realisation, we looked for campgrounds on offer. As it turned out, there were some with bad reviews and some a fair way ahead. Another 10-minute discussion and our hearts overtook our heads. The car obediently turned back and headed for the cliffs. I was happy as I knew Ken would have regretted never having the chance again to video them.
This time we were careful not to miss the dirt road turnoff. They are challenging to see as you hurtle past at 100 km per hour. One needs to look for caravans dotting the skyline in the distance, which usually indicates a hidden road somewhere. The first turn was about 50 km back, which was better than it could have been. This was a different stop to the way over and, at first look, not as pretty but still a very dramatic cliff line. We found a spot maybe 10 m from the edge, and as dusk was close, Ken immediately put up the drone. It was less windy than our previous stay, or so I thought. Settling for the night, watching the sunset slowly slip away, the wind blew lightly. We were only having soup that night as our supplies were getting low. It was just as well as the force of the winds increased steadily. They were not gale force or cyclone-style winds but on the edge of the country and no obstacles except a bit of canvas to break the sound; the trailer groaned a little, and the canvas complained bitterly as the wind thumped against the frame. Not our best sleep and our Cub Explorer was indeed tested, but seeing the drone video the following evening, we decided it was worth the discomfort. Interestingly,
the footage revealed the instability of the cliff edges. Much evidence of crumbly rocky side walls where huge chunks had fallen into the ocean below. It was a grand site to see the coastline stretched out before us. We are such a tiny part of this beautiful country.
Continuing east to Penong with around 60 km to go, we ended up stuck behind two road trains, 50 metres each in length. Things became interesting when a van behind was edging out to overtake. We were preparing to pull to the left, thinking he was on a suicide mission. We could clearly see how long that road train in front of us was, and adding our 10-metre length made this a little risky. Thankfully he thought better of it at that point. The next movement was that of a long truck that overtook the van and sat behind us. We could not overtake as we could not get up the speed to cover the distance. We assume the road trains and the trucks were talking on their CB radios as he shortly pulled out to overtake. We pulled to the side, watched him go, and were amazed when a second-long truck followed him. They both pulled in quickly in front of the first road train minutes before a caravan heading west appeared. I let out a sigh of relief just as two 4WD motor vehicles come racing up beside us, overtaking ourselves and the road train. I was certainly holding my breath. They made it with little to spare, and we finally were able to relax. This was the most significant number of vehicles we had seen close together and the most tactical movements in that short 50 km distance out of the total 1200 km. Getting close to the end, we turned off at Penong to drive down to Lake McDonnell. This lake is known for its colour. Arriving, we can immediately see the pink lake on one side and the blue lake on the other. Turning a bend, you can see the green lake come into sight. Of course, the colour is affected by many things which changes the depth and contrast of the colours. With the sun shining, the colour was easily distinguishable, and Ken wanted to put the drone up to see if the colour would be more profound in the video view. In the process, he decided to try to have the drone follow our moving car. This was not necessarily a success, as a low battery forced him to land the drone in an unknown spot. Turning back as soon as we could, we had to keep our eyes peeled for a small foreign object sitting along the roadway. We were lucky enough to find it pretty close down the road. Drones are not cheap, so we were happy to have him safely back in its case.
We were heading back to Penong, onto Ceduna, and somewhere to stay that night. We found a lovely caravan park out of town where we completed the much-needed washing. The big question was whether to continue our travels and explore South Australia. We are getting closer to home and missing our family and friends. The weather is getting colder, and we are tired. Given these feelings, we decide to make SA another trip and head directly home. Once this was fixed, we knew we would have to travel back through Broken Hill, Cobar, and home. I quickly endeavoured to find out if there were things we needed to catch on the way home. A fellow traveller recommended the granite outcrop at Wudinna on the way to Broken Hill. Wudinna, pronounced Wood’na, is around 210 km from Ceduna, an excellent spot to stop for lunch and a break from driving. We pulled into this small town which is neatly presented. We found a lovely little café for a light lunch. Once refreshed, we headed off on the scenic drive.
Not too far out, we found ourselves at Polda Rock. It looked pretty extensive from the car, and once you embark upon the climb, you realise it is enormous. Once at the top, there is a 360 view of all the pastoral lands surrounding it. We saw hundreds of tiny tadpoles in a pool of water on the top of the rock. Not something you would expect to see at that point. A little dam at the base catching water runoff was being enjoyed by a couple of ducks and several birds. The simplicity of seeing nature excel is always fascinating. These outcrops of rock emerge unexpectedly out of the bush and appear to reach for the sun. It makes one wonder what this country looked like millions of years ago.
There were many other large bodies of rock, with the last being Mt Wudinna which one could call a small mountain as opposed to a rock. It is impossible to photograph these monoliths. They are something you need to experience yourself.
Moving to Broken Hill, Cobar, while passing some small towns with their unique characteristics.
We are getting to the end of a very memorable trip. The camper trailer has performed exceptionally, and the car has managed brilliantly. Our memories are full, with thousands of photos to help us recall. We know we travel well together and have learnt a lot about Australia’s outback and western perimeter.
I hope those reading this blog find it interesting. For some readers, a simpler version would be better, but when reading travel information, you miss the little things which make up the many moments when there is no wow factor to fill your senses. These are the times you tend to remember the most, or at least I do.
Thank you for reading, and hopefully, I will have more small and extensive trips to share with you all.
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After a very tense afternoon of trying to secure accommodation, we finally booked into our caravan park late in the day. That night we had a visit from a little Bandicoot checking our campsite for supper. He hung around for a short time and certainly was not afraid of us. All food was neatly packed away that night. The following morning, we drove into the Perth CBD. Our first impression was that of a very clean and pretty place. Ken had been to Perth many years earlier and was totally surprised at how it had grown. He remembered it as a large historic regional town and now it was a thriving mixture of new and old. An expanding city built around a lovely harbour.
We started at Kings Park. Which is in the heart of the city. The main area focus ‘s around the war memorial which is surrounded by beautiful lawns looking over gorgeous views of the city and the harbour. We walked through the Botanic gardens and then went down to photograph the Crawley Edge boathouse. A gorgeous historical boatshed located on the Swan River. Built in 1930’s and one of those scene’s that result in a postcard photograph. After a light lunch in the park café and a little more wandering around the sparse grounds of Kings Park we headed for the pedestrian walkway on the edge of the river. Matagarup Bridge is a magnificent suspension bridge crossing over the Swan River providing pedestrian access to East Perth and Burswood. Its total length is 370m and it is 9m wide. Since we visited, they have opened a bridge climb and a zip line experience. I can imagine that being very popular with both locals and tourists. Possibly more important to some is the grand access to the Perth Optus Stadium which makes for a spectacular start for a day out or a celebratory evening.
We hurried back to the caravan park as Ken wanted to get a good view of the the shipwreck of the Omeo, blown ashore in 1905 just a short drive from our caravan park at Coogee (Pronounced Coo Gee.)
The next day I had quite a bit of work to catch up on so Ken ventured into Fremantle without me. The Gaol was his destination, and he spent many hours there doing three different tours. He came home a very sore and happy man with tales to tell and photos to show. His recommendation if you are in WA. See the photos below.
The next morning, we drove just over 2 hrs to Busselton, we booked into a caravan park and headed straight to the foreshore to see the Busselton Jetty. Famous for its length of 1.841 kilometres. The longest timber-piled jetty in the Southern Hemisphere. You can walk the entire length or join the other tourists and ride on the cute little red train. We chose the train this time and listened to the commentary along the way. Walking would have been quicker though but maybe not as much fun. When you reach the end there is an underwater observatory. It is amazing the variety and the colour of the coral growing on the jetty pylons deep beneath us. There are many schools of fish that can be seen through the various windows provided on each level as you descend about 8 metres below the surface. You are not rushed, and a guide is available for questions. Finishing with a quaint gift shop to browse as you wait for your return train journey. It takes approximately 2 hours and well worth the time. We meandered back along the water’s edge for coffee and cake. Several eating and drinking establishments are available and an extremely fun looking playing area for the kids to enjoy. We needed a Woolworths and a Bunnings that day, so off we went to search the town. Back to the caravan for some wine and cheese before dinner.
Starting early the next day, we drove to the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse for a guided tour. Thirteen kilometres from the town of Dunsborough in the Leewin-Naturaliste National Park. As this is a working lighthouse a guided tour is the only way to see inside the building. There are around 59 small stairs to reach the top balcony and take advantage of the panoramic view of the Indian Ocean and the surrounding bushlands. The lighthouse is in very good condition and the original workspaces well preserved. Our tour guide was easy to understand and very informative about the history of the area, and the current work being performed at the lighthouse. The grounds are well kept, and an inviting coffee shop is waiting for you when the tour is done. Twenty minutes’ drive away we stopped at Yallingup to see the Ngilgi (pronounced niggly) limestone caves. We have been in many caves in our lifetime but even though there are similarities we always find a uniqueness about each cave.
This one headed straight down into a small cavern where the guide showed us some classic formations, talked about the difference aspects of the cave, and then left us on our own to choose a path to follow. This is the best way to explore a cave as you get to go where you want and at your own pace. No waiting for twenty other people to take selfies before you can photograph without someone in the frame. After completely exhausting our-selves we eventually arrived at the exit. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience and discovered we were in desperate need of food and water. We stopped for a Frankfurt and Sauerkraut roll with coffee, which was very tasty and took off for Canal Rocks. Another site in the Leewin-Naturaliste National Park, southwest of Yallingup. There is a man-made narrow bridge which crosses between rocks on Smiths beach and the ocean. At the end of the bridge one can negotiate carefully over the rocks to get a great view of the ocean’s power as it hits the many canals between the rocks. Where Ken is happiest wandering through the bush, I can sit endlessly watching the ocean waves crashing on the rocks. Unfortunately, we were hampered from doing this, as a very rude woman and her family were blocking the entrance to the wilderness of the many rocky outcrops. We waited on the bridge for some time but eventually gave up as we heard her mention to someone that she was not giving up her vantage point. The longer we waited the more our fixation was on this woman rather than the view. We were still able to see the beauty of the area and clamoured over other rocks to see different aspects of the waves. It just leaves a bitter taste in your mouth when people are so selfish.
During our return drive we noticed the names of the towns had the same ending. Yallingup, Quindalup, Wilyabrup and Carbunup. Intriguing enough to have me googling. Apparently, the suffix “up” in the dialect of the Noongar language means “place of”. Satisfied now and thankful for Google we moved on.
Our next stop was to be Margaret River, however we decided to give this area a miss. We had no wish to visit wineries, so we headed straight to Hamelin Bay with the hope of seeing the stingrays up close. As part of the Ngari Capes Marine Park, Hamelin Bay has shallow waters and perfect to view the stingrays mining for food. We had read clear and calm days were the optimum and of course we chose a windy and cool day. With hope we headed to the water’s edge. We were in luck, a large and a medium size stingray were foraging in the water. They move quite quickly floating seamlessly just below the surface with undulating movements which allow you to see a little more of their body as they break the surface. Such beautiful creatures to watch. Once again though the view was interrupted by ignorant people doing what they should not. Signs on the way down to the beach say. Look but don’t touch, stay several metres away, don’t walk or swim near the rays. Several people standing within inches of them, one snorkelling on top of the smaller one. Our frustration levels soared once again to the point of arguing with one family who just laughed us off. They did move away while we were there, but our guess is they were back at it as soon as we left. Would I have been sorry if a stingray barb found them, definitely not. One can only hope.
Venturing on we visited Leeuwin Lighthouse at the most south-westerly point of Australia, on our way to Augusta. It is also the tallest lighthouse in Australia at 39 metres. It is situated on a peninsular where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet. With Antarctica to the south and Africa to the west.
Thankfully I did not have to walk the steps in this one. We were happy to just see the view from the peninsular where it soars a mere 56 metres above sea level. Once again, the grounds are well maintained, the walk to the base of the lighthouse has great views of the surrounding area. There are a few of the old stone houses open for inspection and a café and gift shop on the way out.
That night we camped out at Alexandra Bridge. A donation camp beside the river with beautiful natural bush camp sites, drop toilets and cold showers available. On arrival we were greeted by a couple of local ducks chasing each other around the campsites. The atmosphere was perfect for a campfire, so we dragged out the Drifta pit fire and settled down to watch the flames. It lasted an hour or so before a light rainfall forced us indoors. We were heading along the bottom of WA now toward Albany via Walpole. An hour along the Great Forest Drive took us to Pemberton, a cute town, known for the popular Karri tree. Apparently, the 3rd tallest tree in Australia reaching heights of 90 metres. The town itself has a lot of appeal with parks and many café’s, art and craft shops lining the main street. It was drizzling rain that day so after coffee and muffins we decided to head for the Gloucester Tree climb. The tree has climbing pegs up to 42 metres reaching a viewing platform. It does go further again however it was closed for restoration that day. The pegs are quite a distance apart and my legs would only stretch so far. For the sake of a photo, 3 rungs were all I could handle. It is a magnificent tree and surrounded by natural bush setting with walks and picnic areas. The rain was only light, so we headed off to the Warren National Park where we found the Dave Evans Bicentennial tree. Another Karri tree, one of the 18 fire lookout towers spread out across the southwest forests. This tree was first used in this way in 1947. It too 6 hrs using a belt and climbing boots to reach the top. Today it is a tourist attraction and can be climbed if you are game. We watched as a young fit guy mastered the 53 metres and back down again.
He was exhausted but exhilarated by the experience. We on the other hand were happy with a few rungs of the ladder once again. The rain had stopped now so we moved on to do the loop walk to the cascades. Nothing spectacular but a nice, pleasant walk along the river.
We had planned on staying in a free camp at Windy Harbour just 27 km south of Northcliffe. When we arrived the campground and the surrounds looked a bit neglected and isolated, so we were a bit unsure. We took a drive around within the D’Entrecasteaux National Park and discovered the walk to The Window. A path winding up to a lookout takes you to a point above a rocky crop with a gap showing the waters below. It is quite a rugged looking spot with a mean deep drop to the ocean. It is part of the Coastal Survivors Walk, which would be very appealing on a nice sunny day. We were not afforded that luxury but were happy with the view. On the way back to the car with umbrellas in hand we spotted a Hawk soaring above the waves, carrying something in his claws. With a quick scramble to get the right camera lens fitted Ken was able to get a few good photos. A little too far away but enough to see a sizeable fish dangling from his claws. He would have eaten well that night.
We decided against staying at Windy Harbour and headed back to Northcliffe to find accommodation. Finally settling on an eco-caravan park which was a bit neglected but covered our needs for one night. That night it was a bit cold and drizzly, so we headed to the local pub for a meal. Only a couple of people in the pub but it was warm and dry. A simple steak and salad order arrived with a super serving of fresh vegetables and a well-cooked scrumptious steak. A friendly chat with the owner and an elderly local lady sitting in the corner behind us who in a stern voice yelled for everyone to be quiet as she steadfastly watched the King’s Coronation on the TV. (A bonus or maybe not) It was a pleasant night and one of the few nights Ken did not have to cook.
We headed off early the next morning to discover the wondrous trees of the Nornalup National Park, Walpole. We arrived at the Giant Tingle Tree Loop walk which was only a kilometre round trip. The trees are so tall and they glisten when the sun peeps through the trunks and hits the branches. In the middle of the walk, you come across the Giant 75m survivor. The centre was a black charred mess where a fire had eaten away the middle of the tree. The outside stood strong and boldly continued to grow up to reach the sun.
Turning off the Vasse Highway to the Southwestern Highway we stopped in at The Valley of the Giants treetop walk. This was not Kens favourite place but one I was looking forward to. The walkway is suspended in the air 40 metres above the ground with the red tingle trees still towering above you. The walkway is strong and feels safe, but it does sway a little so can be a bit unnerving. It is not as spectacular as I was expecting but I was happy to have mastered it. Once on the ground again there is a lovely walk through the forest viewing some very huge grotesque and gnarly red tingle trees. Another large tree where the centre was missing was the pinnacle of the walk. Personally, we thought the earlier short walk through the forest was a little more enjoyable as it was a lot less commercialised.
Moving on we arrive at William Bay National Park. There are several walks from the car parks, one being to Elephant Beach. Walking toward the viewpoint on a sandy track is hard on the legs but eventually you get to a lookout where you can see the massive rocks huddled together looking like the rumps of several elephants standing side by side. Further investigating found a large expanse of rock to climb over and wooden steps leading down to crevices hiding a beautiful beach with turquoise coloured water. By this time my legs were objecting furiously so while I sat and admired the view on a bench, Ken wandered up and over the surrounding grassy hillsides searching for better photo angles of the beach and the rocks. Although he found what he wanted I think his legs were burning on the return trip. A couple of hectic hours, finding accommodation and groceries and our heads had no trouble finding the pillows that night.
The next morning, I woke at 6.00am. Sneaking a look out the window of the camper I saw the sun starting to rise. I quickly dressed and walked across to the beach front and sat on the bench to watch the skyline change its colours as the sun’s rays hit the ocean and the surrounding landscape. Several people jogged and walked past on their daily ritual, other than that the world was still and calm. With yellow, pink, crimson tones shining through the clouds it was spectacular way to start the day.
Another breakfast and the excitement started again. Today we are heading to the other side of Albany to visit Torndirrup National Park. Our first stop The Gap. Once again, the car park and walkways are well maintained and easy to navigate. The platform reaches out and over the surging waters below. The waves crash upon the 40-metre-high granite walls spraying water up the sides never to reach the top. Looking out at the walls you see what looks like huge building blocks sitting on top of each other, threatening to crash into the sea below. You wonder how they do not fall. Just opposite the pathway leads to another viewing platform. Here the waves have slowly eroded the granite over millions of years. Boulders have collapsed creating a bridge over the ocean. Again, another marvel that makes you wonder how long it has been there and how long it will remain. Next, we took the 1.6 return walk to see The Blowhole. We were out of luck this time, but the view was lovely. The walk was hard as it was steep going down and of course felt steeper coming back up. We were lucky enough to hear and see a group of five Carnaby’s black cockatoos in the bushes on the side of the path and the views of Bald Head and the Great Southern Ocean. We headed back to Albany trying to decide whether to rest at the trailer for the afternoon or look for something else to see. After driving a little in the town, we came across the Whaling station. We were in two minds about going as morally it did seem wrong in some way. We stopped for lunch at their café and made our decision. So pleased we did as the whole experience was interesting and informative. The first thing to explore is the Cheynes IV ship. The whole ship is open right down to the bowels. There is a lot of information available, and you are then able to go through the surrounding factories. There are interactive displays, lots of pictures and stories of the whalers and their families. The demise of the station took its toll on many people who even though one does not agree with the killing of the whales it is sad to see the result of closing the process. What did surprise us was the huge sperm whale skeleton in one of the factory areas. Standing up close you feel insignificant against the mass of the bone skeleton.
I must mention here the slackness of two teachers who were obviously on a field trip with a dozen or so young students aged approx. 6 to 12yrs. We were there for a few hours and on many occasions saw the children running wild, both over the ship and around the grounds and factory areas. There was little if no supervision from the teachers and certainly no control over whereabouts of the children at any given time. I would hate to think this was a regular occurrence on field trips. It was very disappointing, and I doubt the students learnt anything that day.
We left the station and wandered up to the small animal zoo attached. I read that the zoo is maintained by one lady. Although small it would be a big job for one to do alone. The first encounter has four white kangaroos. In this case not albinism but leucism, a fault in the pigment cells which causes the fur to be white but usually the skin and eyes are not affected. Really quite stunning to see them. There were also other kangaroos, wombats, possums, birds, and other Australian animals. A short but nice visit and a good end to the day. We were again exhausted and headed back to our trailer for an early night.
The next day we were heading inland to see some much-awaited landmarks. You will have to watch for the final part 5 edition find out where and find out about our escapades on our way home.
Ken saw a very appealing reference for a National Park camping ground only 2 half hours from home. This one you needed to register and pay a booking fee of $6.00.
The weather at home, the week before was dismal so I was beginning to wonder whether we should venture out at all. Luckily by Thursday the forecast was improving and on the Friday morning we woke to sunshine. We hurriedly got everything together, had an early lunch and headed off for our three-day adventure. The drive into the national park is a spacious valley of wilderness, a canyon with Red faced mountains climbing on either side, looming up into the sky. A few ruins of chimneys and machinery can be seen along the way. The road is narrow but not too much traffic to spoil the serenity of the drive.
On reaching the Coorongooba camping grounds we were not disappointed. They were isolated, but well managed with toilets and fire pits available. The grounds were situated along a river not far from the ruins of an old shale mine where they produced oil and petroleum during and after the war years. When we arrived most of the spots along the rivers edge were taken but there were many other level sites with park benches and barbecue pits available. We chose a flat area near a table, looking straight toward the trees along the riverbank. Above the tree line the red and grey cliff face reached for the stars. A very picturesque setting. It took us about an hour to set up and after a wander through the campsite we settled down with a beer and wine. We were pleasantly greeted by the locals. A very domesticated family of kangaroos happily hopping throughout the grounds, stopping to stare, taking their time to munch on some grass and then bounding off to entertain other campers. Just after that little introduction we looked down to see quite a large goanna making his way up from the river. He casually made his way up the rise, crossed the dirt road, and continued up the hill checking out all the fire pits, we assume he was looking for leftovers. He then, went merrily on his way searching for insects around the perimeter of the grounds. He seemed to have a set ritual, as we saw him repeat the process the next evening also. He appeared oblivious to us humans, but not completely unaware as we noticed, on a couple of occasions, they can move very quickly when necessary.
Dinner was underway, a curried chicken casserole with rice and the aroma was very encouraging. While we let the curry do its thing, we were able to sit and watch the setting of the sun continuously change the colours of the cliff face, from red, to orange to yellow with the green of the trees becoming more of a contrast. It would not be long before the night sky settled in with the sparkling of the multitude of stars occupying our thoughts.
Out came the binoculars to try to seek out the ZWF (Green Comet) last seen 50 thousand years ago by the Neanderthals. Ken was able to find it quickly but my skill at operating the looking glasses was pathetic so unfortunately, I was devoid of such a luxury.
The camp site lights turned off and the area grew quiet. It was time for us humans to rest and allow the nocturnal creatures to have their time.
The next morning before the sun was allowed into the valley, the air was cool and crisp. The Kookaburra’s were sounding off and quickly joined by numerous other birds stirring all around. The water boiled and a hot cup of coffee was placed in my hands. The best start to a brand-new day of sunshine and adventure. We started the day slowly taking the time to watch the sun fill the canyon and change the view substantially.
A short drive from camp led us to the old shale mining town of Glen Davis. Parking off the road we headed uphill along a dirt track. Small remnants of previous buildings are evident along the way.
There is a great overview of the ruined shale works when you near the top. Once a thriving community, the shale works was one of the largest employers in the area.
Further along quite a large structure remains. It is interesting wandering through the fallen archways navigating the levels and trying to figure out what its purpose was so many years before. Walking beyond the first ruin, you will find more partly standing buildings, covered in flowers and greenery making them attractive to the eye. Scattered with bits of dilapidated mining equipment, broken steps, crumbed walls your mind races once again with imaginary stories of the past. A huge black snake slithered quickly away, thankfully in the opposite direction, as we interrupted his sunbaking. Wandering further up the hill we found a closed off mining shaft. You could see down the shaft and marvel at the strength and conviction of those who had to delve into its depth, day after day. The weather was quite hot and the entry to the shaft heavily occupied by flies, so we did not stay for too long. Close by were a few very large rolls of cable, possibly used to lower the carts to the bottom of the shaft. Obviously too large to move when the mine was abandoned. We returned to the first ruin, found a low wall to sit with a drink and snack before heading down the hill, where Ken put the drone up for an aerial view of the area. There are tours which can be purchased, and we were told it was very interesting learning of the history of the area.
Reaching the bottom of the hill we crossed the road to the weir to paddle our feet. Today the water was shallow, but you could see the effects of previously high-water levels. It was refreshing on the toes but a bit of a scramble to get to the water’s edge. Moving on we drove to Glenn Davis, pretty much a ghost town now. There are residents still around but not many and no shops or industry to see.
A nice park and camp area with a community hall in the centre of town. Some information plaques which tell the story of the lifestyle of those who occupied the houses. It is a remote place and hard to believe there were once approximately 2500 people living and working in the area. We took off to find a café for lunch and found ourselves in Rylestone. Another country town with a huge history. A lovely park to wander through, a couple of pubs, cafes, and touristy shops.
Overall, it was an interesting day and we finished it with some wine and cheese, a chat with some regulars to the campsite, a great meal, and an early night.
The next day we decided to spend some time down by the river. The water was warm, and the sun was shining. We started walking up the river heading for the spot where two rivers met. It was a lot longer than we thought but was a beautiful walk. It was relatively shallow in most places. We came across a family of kangaroo’s standing in the water watching us closely. We slowly skirted around them so as not to disturb them from their routine. Neither of us had seen kangaroos standing in water previously, it was a bit of a surprise. We kept going and eventually after a bit of offshore walking we came to the join where the rivers met. It was a little deeper here and we were certainly hot by then. I laid down in the water floating aimlessly soaking in the sun. It was very relaxing and soothing on my aching calves. Walking in water is not something my legs were familiar with. We saw a few more kangaroos, and lots of birds throughout the journey. After some time, we trudged up the embankment, scrambling over some debris to find ourselves at the very end of the campsite. A slow walk back checking out the campers coming and going drained us completely, so we hovered near the campsite that afternoon. There were the usual goings on with the goannas and the resident kangaroos which kept us amused till dinner. I cannot remember what delicacy we had that night, but Ken is a whizz at camp cooking, so I am sure it was wonderful.
The next morning, again waking to a clear day, Ken decided to tackle a bush walk taking him uphill and down the other side to the creek. I chickened out and decided to read my book at camp side. I wandered down to the lower end of the camp area and sat myself down at one of the low bench tables for a good read. It turned out there was much entertainment right at my foot with several goanna’s searching for food.
Meandering in and about the trees and bushes and the table legs. I followed 2 of them closely and then to my amazement saw at least another 3. With trusty mobile phone in hand, I watched them fluidly manoeuvring tree stumps, grassy patches, bushes, and table legs searching constantly for insects. They were all on a mission and nothing stood in their way except maybe each other when they got too close. Ken arrived back a couple of hours later, tired but happy he had managed the climb. We chatted with some other campers, hearing about their interesting encounter with a snake and a possum the night before. After finding out about some other good sites to camp, we said our goodbyes and headed over to pack up our trailer. It had been 3 lovely days and we highly recommend the site to others. We suspect you would need to book well in advance if attending in holiday times though. Outside of that you should have no trouble.
Ablutions, toilet paper, people and other things. Basing these comments on my recent travel across Australia.
Beside visiting wonderous towns, seeing exceptional scenery, and noticing quirky occurrences we have learned a lot about travelling in general and specifically in a camper trailer. The difference to being in a caravan with its own toilet and shower facility.
There needs to be more discussion about basic facilities offered across Australia, whether it be on the side of the road, in a caravan park, in a public park, a tourist attraction or a shopping centre. Regardless of where it is there is something to say about them all.
Starting with the positives, availability of toilets in the outback is quite good. Many of the free camps have drop toilets and there no shortage of roadside pull offs with drop or flushing toilets. The majority are clean, with toilet paper, sanitiser, and large spacious areas for wheelchair access. Most regional towns have public toilets which again we found to be clean and spacious. As for the national parks and tourist attractions, beaches, and lookouts, particularly in WA have sealed facilities, with toilet paper and sanitiser provided. Some of the more remote towns have isolated shower facilities and toilets available for a few dollars, most are clean and safe. We also noticed water is readily accessible for a small fee. Rubbish bins are provided at most road pull offs and throughout all towns and attractions. We also noticed all the caravan parks have washing machines and dryers which work, and many have camp kitchens and barbecue area.
Now for the frustrating negatives. Thoughtless humans being the first and most annoying of the problems. Not only across the Nullarbor but in the outback one can easily drive stretches of 100-300 kms with no facilities which is totally understandable. Often there is no possible way to monitor or maintain proper care for facilities over these distances. Therefore, it is sensible to take that into account when travelling these routes. My first thought was to not drink copious amounts of soft drink or water in between. Apparently not obvious to all. Along some of these massive drives the toilet paper on the side of the road is ridiculous. If collected there would be enough to build a bloody bonfire at the end of each stretch. Why is it so hard for one to keep a plastic bag and a toilet roll in their vehicle. Take your rubbish with you or put it in the provided bin. If you are free camping, take a little shovel with you. It is not rocket science. It is common decency which is obviously lacking in many human beings.
My second gripe is toilet roll holders. Uniformity would be the key here. There are those with dowel sticks that hold several rolls. Just a note to those who put the rolls of paper on the stick, the roll must be able to turn. It won’t work if the toilet roll is too fat or too close to the next one or in once case the stick was a flat rectangular bar which did not turn. The tall drop boxes where the toilet rolls sit on top on one another. Bad design all over. Hard for the roll to turn when another roll sitting on top. Hard to remove the used roll and then the other refuses to drop down. Can you get the lid off to fix it, of course not as it is jammed tight or locked. Now let’s talk about the newer large receptables with the massive size toilet rolls in them. First thing is the toilet paper is not very wide and unacceptably thin. Because it is thin paper one needs copious amounts of toilet paper to avoid the obvious so not economical. Who thinks up where to put these receptacles. Why are they in positions which make it impossible to gently pull on the paper. Either one must twist into a yoga pose to reach behind to tug on paper, alternatively you must reach down to your ankles to pull or push the paper out. If the person before does not tear it off properly the paper roll just keeps turning without releasing the paper. On one occasion in a café the spare toilet roll was on the shelf above the toilet, way above the toilet, not exactly the right time to have to stand up and turn around to reach for the one item you need to be able to leave the receptacle gracefully. Someone did not think that one through. Still on the toilet paper issue and humans, having said it is difficult to get the paper out of these receptacles, it is not however difficult to pick up the bits that have fallen on the floor. You dropped it, not your fault but pick it up and place it in the toilet bowl before you flush. Why is this so hard. It is not used paper just discarded paper. If you leave it on the floor, it then becomes dirty and messy.
Now onto the size of toilet cubicles. In one toilet I had to open the door slide up to the side of the toilet to be able to close the door, another I was practically sitting on the sanitising bin at the same time I was sitting on the toilet seat. Low and small toilets are also very inconvenient for the older generation. No handrails beside the toilets, again older people can have difficulty rising from a toilet seat. Where does one put the handbag, on the wet or paper covered floor, on the sanitizer bin or should we just keep it on our lap. Finally done we move to wash our hands, good luck with the soap dispenser, I am not bothering to elaborate on these poorly designed containers, give up and go straight to the tap. We are often confronted with a tiny weeny sink which is hard to get one hand under the tap let alone both hands. Then there is that tap which splutters and spurts at either minimum flow or with the force of a high-pressure hose. Let us not forget those unique water sinks with the taps which may or may not turn off themselves. Is it going to stop or flood the entire area? Do I turn it, wave over the fitting, or bang it with my fist?
Next to contend with is drying one’s hands. Firstly, never near the sink, so shake the hands and drip the water on the floor while looking for what’s available. Either paper or blow apparatus or occasionally these days you will still get those rolling hand towels.
With luck you will remove a small slither of paper to use or said paper will be stuck in the receptacle or more likely it is completely empty. Try the blower and get blown to the far wall or should I hug the air vents with my hands to find the miniscule airflow. Now where did I put my handbag, is it on the wet counter, the miniscule shelf provided or on the wet floor between my feet. Check your hair and makeup without getting the comb or your lippy from your bag as it is too wet or awkward. Sometime later you get to emerge from the toilet block having endured an experience you had not wished for.
Now we are onto showers or ablution blocks. Not a word I have heard used regularly but I have noticed this trip it is referred to often in camp site reviews. Appropriate I guess as the dictionary meaning is “an act of washing oneself”. Cleanliness was very good in most of the parks we stayed. It is usually the humans using the facility that are messy. Most places provided mops and buckets which allowed you to assist in keeping the block clean. Shower heads leave a lot to be desired, some work well, but many are very unpredictable depending on the amount of people using the facility at the time. Some are just pathetic. Water pressure is a big problem in a lot of them. Water temperatures varied considerably and always an unknown. I wonder if they consider the amount of wasted water while we try to regulate the hot and cold-water taps. Size of the cubicles always a discussion point. Tiny spaces with barely enough room to turn around, no shower curtain, and one towel hook. There is often a little bench seat for your dry clothes which usually end up wet from the shower spray. Of course, the floor is wet all over, so shoes are also wet. Realistically you need 2 towels, one to dry the cubicle so you can then dry yourself. There was one occasion I walked into the shower block to hear someone having a great party time with their music blaring out from the shower. Luckily it was music I did not mind. Another time in a small ablution block, two ladies in opposite rooms were having a most boisterous discussion in a foreign language through the wall of the cubicles. I may have been happy to join in had I understood the conversation. The laundry and clothesline, always a need for several trips back and forth. Walk to see if one is available. Walk to reception to get applicable coins because the last one took $1 coins, but these takes $2 coins. Walk back to machine and hope machine is still available. If you are in luck, make sure you read the sign, they all work differently. Figure it out and get it started. Blinking light says 30 minutes. Wait for another available machine for the second load. There are usually 2-3 washing machines in a caravan park of 50 or more vans. Cannot figure that one out. First load finishes so you load the dryer, if available. Price varies of course but often no sign to say how long a cycle is. $2 could be 15mins or 30mins. You wait and see and hope you will not be there all day, because you know that first cycle is not going to be enough. Sometimes the clothesline is a better choice however than we have those that leave their clothes on the line for 2 days. They went out, they forgot, or they are just inconsiderate. Once again you wait and hope. My advice regardless of the set up take a book, you will need it.
Leaving the amenities, we move on to other things.
Once again thoughtless human behaviour is everywhere, bear with me while I rant a little more. I am amazed at the number of people who ignore instructions and warnings. I know it is only a few who spoil it for the majority however my frustration levels soar when I see it happen time and time again. Don’t go near the edge, avoid area due to slippery rocks, keep your distance from the animals, don’t leave your rubbish, road subject to flooding, no parking, no camping, no fires, beware dangerous area. Signs are plentiful and obvious and there is one person in every crowd that simply has no common sense and does exactly the opposite to the instruction. I am not talking about children, it is always an adult and even worse, an adult with a child in tow. What sort of example are they setting? Do they have a death wish or are they just selfish? I am dumbfounded and so angry every time I see it.
I will end this blog on a more positive note as I do not want to sound like a winging old lady (my apologies if I do, as I get older, my tolerance is diminishing.)
There were many times during our travels that we had to quickly pull over to take a photo when something unexpected caught our eye. Letterboxes, garden arrangements, some sculptures. I love how people are strong enough to put their passion and thoughts on display for everyone to see. I love the artistic flare of others who put tireless hours into a creation in the middle of nowhere. I often wonder about the story behind the picture. We can tell stories and show photographs of all the highlights, the grand scenes, and the wow moments, many of which others have had the pleasure of seeing themselves, but for me it is the quirky stuff that makes each trip unique and memorable.
Below are some of this trip’s quirky moments.
This one not too bad Main road of Hyden WAMore on Main road of Hyden WAHousehold of Fisherman?How cute is this guyBrillianceThe lost peopleWhat planet is he fromIn the eye of the beholderA farmers work is never doneAn old bikie lives hereA minion fanSame fanBear JunctionBear JunctionChristmas in May in the outback Please explainCamels awayWhy?A surfer lives hereRecycled garden things On the Esplanade of Geraldton WAOn an isolated outback highwayWhats missing here?
Hope you enjoyed my silliness. If so like and follow for more of my tales.
Our goal after the eclipse was to head to Kalbarri National Park. On the way are a couple of must-do stops to see Coral Bay and Monkey Mia. We had heard from our friends, Leigh and Geoff who were staying at Denman, near Monkey Mia for a few days. We agreed to try to meet up with them. We headed straight to Coral Bay which has one road in and out. It turned out a non-event for us. Basically, it is a beach stay with flash caravan parks/resorts, with what looked like an expensive hotel and coffee shop. You could not move for caravans, on top of each other, with kids, and paddle boards everywhere. We could not even park to see the beach and therefore were unable to tell you if it was of any significance.
Moving back to the highway we headed down and pulled off before Carnarvon to see the Quobba Blow Hole. We timed it beautifully as the tide was in and the water erupting. This was much more to our liking. It is a natural area, with no lookout, fencing or commercialism and only a few humans around. You can walk across the rocks close to the water’s edge. It was not dangerous although some caution was needed due to it being wet and slippery. The water was fiercely blowing up through the hole when we arrived. We were able to get quite close to the opening for some great photos. Getting wet was fun and a bonus as the day had been very hot and dry. We went for a walk up the beach to a small lookout to view another cove with yet another inviting family-style beach. We noticed a large flock of sea birds sitting on a rocky outcrop nearby. The afternoon was quickly fading and so we moved on.
We decided to take our time and stay at Carnarvon once again to wash our clothes, and to enjoy some hot showers. For a few days now I have not been feeling well, hacking cough etc. Checked for covid but all clear, just a good old cold, just enough to upset our plans a little. My walking skills were a bit subdued, and my planning ability was out the window.
Woodleigh Impact Crater As the sign says at Shark Bayone of thousands of termite mounds on the way. The shoreline at Quobba Blow HoleQuobba Blow Hole Near Carnarvon A few of the many sea birds we saw
The next morning, we packed up early and we were looking forward to seeing our friends at Denham. Of course, our car does tend to veer off the road at every camera or tourist sign. Hamelin Pool to see the Stromatolites was our first detour. We see the stalagmites, and the stalactites many times but this was new to me, at least. It was a short hot walk to the beach from the car park and unfortunately, the jetty had been damaged in recent storms and the access to these living fossils was not great. There are information boards but a large wire fence between you and the fossils. Hopefully, they will get the jetty fixed so others can enjoy them. The next pull-off was Shell Beach, Shark Bay, which was fascinating. Millions of tiny shells covering a 60km stretch to a depth of 7-10 metres. It is a pure white beach with shallow warm water to paddle in. A little hard on bare feet though. Our water shoes would have been a good idea, had we thought of it. Nonetheless it was quite pretty, and the water was beautiful.
After the beach a pull-off to an historic telegraph office and beach. Not worth a mention as it was not an inviting-looking area. A little rundown and neglected, I do feel it needs some work to appeal more to the public.
We moved on quickly to Denham. This is a quaint town with a manicured esplanade running along the beachfront. It is a popular town for boating and fishing and the gateway to the Shark Bay World Heritage Area The caravan parks looked full, and we suspect a lot of holiday rentals were at capacity. We were lucky, as Leigh and Geoff had an Airbnb which had an extra room and bathroom facilities downstairs. For the first time in many weeks, we were able to have a normal bed and a normal bathroom. This was just as exciting as seeing our friends. After a cold cider and some catch-up conversation, it was decided a swim was in order. We headed off for a lake nearby. It was a short drive and within a dozen steps of the car, the water was shallow and warm. We lazed in the water and chatted some more until the late afternoon air chilled our bodies. Back to our accommodation for shower and clean clothes for a night out at the local. We headed down to the most western hotel in Australia for a great meal, some wine and more talking. As we woke from a sound sleep, we looked forward to our trip to Monkey Mia. We had heard lots of good things about this place, and I was thrilled at the prospect of seeing dolphins up close and personal. Driving another 20 km from Denham we arrived at what appeared to be a holiday resort. There was a large information and gift shop and a walkway to the jetty where the dolphins were expected to visit. The area is very resort-style, with large parkland for children, a large restaurant and easy beach access. The dolphins are expected two to three times each morning. You wait near the jetty and once the dolphins are seen in the distance, two guides join you with stories of their families and their behaviours. They do come into the water’s edge and the handlers feed them fish. They allow you to stand at the edge of the water, however, you are restricted in how close you can get to them. It is a lovely experience as they are majestic and playful creatures. The whole experience lasts for half an hour at which time we wandered up for lunch as there was little else to do. There are emu wandering around the play area and around the restaurant which are cute to watch. We returned to the Airbnb, happy at what we had seen but underwhelmed by the whole experience. I expect if we were the type that loved sunbaking on a pristine beach then we would have appreciated the effort more.
I spent the afternoon working and Ken caught up on some photo editing. Geoff decided to cook us a gourmet seafood dinner that night. He is a pretty good chef as we have experienced his excellent culinary ability previously. After a couple of glasses of wine, a walk along the waterfront, holiday tiredness crept in. As our friends were leaving earlier than us the next morning, we said our goodbyes that evening and let sleep take over once more.
Damaged jetty alongside StromotalitesWading on Shell Beachclose up of the beach surfaceThe size of Shell BeachOn the Esplanade of DenmanOn the streets of DenmanMonkey Mia DolphinsMonkey Mia DolphinsCapturing the beauty of the DolphinDolphins frolickingMonkey Mia Beach
Another 350 km down the highway brings us to Kalbarri National Park. The road off the highway is pretty much all national park. The first walk we encountered was Nature’s Window. It was about a 1.5 km walk on a boardwalk with a little bit of rock navigating at the end. The large rock window allows one to look through into the Murchison River and its surrounds. The scene is perfect and beckons for a photo. The national park spans 186,000 hectares so looking out from the rocky outcrop was stunning. My cold was still persistent and so I found the walk back up was draining.
A short drive further on and you come to the Kalbarri Skywalk. This lookout allows you to walk out onto two manmade structures with see-through flooring extending over the valley. It is very pretty and easily accessible but personally standing on an undeveloped piece of land high on a cliff top is more exhilarating. Having said that the lookout and the sealed walking paths do allow a lot more people to access the beauty of this country. Once again there is a lot of information displayed and a tiny café available for resting. Overall, it is a very picturesque place to visit. There were several more drives and walks available but as it was getting late, we headed into town to secure our accommodation. Free camping was not as forthcoming along the coast, so we headed to a caravan park on the main road opposite the foreshore. That night, hoping for a nice sunset we wandered over to the park on the beach and were rewarded with a very beautiful peaceful crimson sky. The next day the intensity of my cold meant I did not want to do any further walks. Ken of course took off to investigate some more of the National Park while I rested. To his discomfort, he encountered another rock scrambling climb down to the bottom of a gorge. He was, however, rewarded with a glorious photographic scene. After another couple of walks he returned a very happy man. We then took a drive through the town and investigated the many ocean lookouts along the way. They all have easy pathways and the views varied at each stop. A little cold and windy but a sunny sky made it a very pleasant afternoon. Another nice sunset over the water saw an end to the day. It is a very pretty town, with lovely scenery, beaches, and some spectacular lookouts. This may have been my favourite place as far as being comfortable and relaxed.
The window to the Murchison RiverKalbari National ParkCliff top view of the MurchisonKalbari Skywalk side viewMe on walkwayKens walk to the bottom of the gorgecontinueing downAnd further downAnd he is at the bottomThe cliff top walk/Drive KalbarriCliff top viewMore of the cliff top views
Leaving Kalbarri, we headed down the coast toward Cervantes. As I said we had taken a drive the previous afternoon to check out these turnoffs. We could not help but look again. The morning sun gave us a slightly different view. We were now ready to move on and hungry to see more of what WA had to offer.
Gregory was the next place to visit. A tiny settlement with a convict history and a pink lake. There are several pink lakes in Australia and this one known as Hutt Lagoon was the first, we had seen. Travelling on along George Grey Drive for some time you see glimpses of the lake and the pink colouring is obvious. Turning off at Port Gregory Road, you drive a kilometre or so directly beside the lake until you approach a small hill where you can pull off and cross the road to a viewing area and access to the beach. There were a few cars there already, so we parked and walked down the hill on the other side. It was easy then to walk across the sand to get a closer view of the pink water. Comparing what we saw with vibrant coloured photo’s it was a dull pink with the colour varying in areas. The depth of the colour changes constantly depending on the bacteria present in the water. I would not say it was strong the day we visited but afterwards replaying the drone video you could see the intensity of the colour. Turning back the way we had come, we looked for the historic Lynton convict depot. Established in 1983, it was the first convict depot north of Fremantle. There were some signposted ruins and a little further up the road was Sanford House a Georgian homestead open to the public for a gold coin donation. We explored a little and then moved on. One thing I noticed here was the massive trees bent almost to the ground, clearly showing the direction of the strong winds that prevail over the Western Australian coastline. We passed through Geraldton once again and checked out a historical church built between 1916-1938. Quite an impressive building and well preserved. We then drove onto our next free camp called Ellendale Pool. The campsite was in Greenough about 45 km southeast of Geraldton. On the way, a tiny town called Walkaway, a wind farm and many acres of farmland followed by 100 m of dirt road, and we found our destination for the night. Crossing over a little bridge we find ourselves surrounded by giant gum trees and a rocky gorge. As we arrived, we noticed a tall tree completely covered in white. At first, I thought it to be white flowers but quickly changed my thinking as a crescendo of piercing cries descended on my ears. There were hundreds of white corella nesting on the branches. Later in the day as the sun started to set it was fascinating to watch huge groups fly overhead vacating their trees, maybe looking for a warmer spot in which to sleep. We will never know but they were back to visit again the next day bright and early. With another couple of hours drive ahead of us we took off without delay.
Pulling into Cervantes expecting quite a large town we were surprised to see the opposite. We were going to a donation camp at the showground but alas it was not operating. There was only one caravan park in the town which I felt was overpriced. I had found out the day before that our daughter Jess had secretly been making plans with Ken to organise a dinner voucher at The Lobster Shack ( a seafood restaurant in Cervantes) as a birthday gift for me. They know I love seafood and this place had been recommended to us. Given that situation, Ken insisted on us staying two nights in the overpriced caravan park so we could enjoy a relaxing afternoon and the next day a celebratory lunch. It was hard to argue with that. A leisurely afternoon and another nice sunset at the beach. We woke to get an early start to see The Pinnacles. I was blown away by these as I had seen photos and was expecting a small desert area with funny-shaped rocks. It is much more than this. We arrived as the park opened. As pensioners, it was only $8.00 to enter. There is a drive through the park which is part of the Nambung nature reserve. As we arrived early there was a quiet peaceful feeling as we started the slow drive. To me, it seemed like we were invading a series of secret cities silently going about the process of change. There are hundreds or maybe thousands of these “rocks” Formed approximately 25,000 to 30,000 years ago. Once the sea receded and left behind the seashells a new world emerged. Winds blew away the sand and left the pillars to stand alone and face the elements. They are all different shapes but often similarities can be seen within certain groups. You are allowed to drive and walk among the rocks but asked not to touch or climb on them. We drove and stopped many times wandering through the structures. Often you would round a corner and feel like you had just entered another town. Some are taller than people, some are wider, there are groups huddled together and others scattered away. They are all individual and yet they are the same. In one very sparse area with more open space, we were joined by three large emus’ wandering steadily across to a small shrubbed area. We were able to watch them slowly pass in front of us on a journey known only to them. I wondered if they were annoyed by our presence in this peaceful, serene setting. Further along the track a large grey kangaroo foraging in the bushes on the side of the road gracefully emerged and hopped across the road right in front of us. We have all seen these animals many times, but I personally am always thrilled when I see them in natural surroundings simply going about their missions. It took a couple of hours to complete the drive and we finished at the visitor’s centre where they have a large display of information and photographs of The Pinnacles. Interestingly they have not yet discovered how they were formed. The actual gift shop was a little disappointing. I find the gifts are pretty much the same in every tourist centre you enter. I was prepared to buy something which represented the park as a memory, but nothing was special or unique. The same old products with different labels. I decided to wait until I found something I liked elsewhere. It did not spoil the visit as I am still thinking of its beauty days later as I write this blog. One of the highlights of the trip for me. Topped off by my special seafood lunch, at the famous Lobster Shack, with wine and a gelato for dessert. Sitting on the balcony with a fabulous ocean view made my day complete.
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As we headed further down the highway, true to form the car was compelled to do a couple of detours on the way. Firstly, we saw a sign for a place called Wedge Island. Asking ourselves the question, what are we going to see, wedge-tailed eagles or an interesting island in the ocean, we had no know idea at this point. A few kilometres down the road we started to see a few old shacks hidden in the bushes. As we continued there were more and more varying shapes, sizes, and conditions. There is no running water, no shops, and no electricity. There are some generators to be seen. The place looked deserted. We could see tracks to beach areas but no signs of people. It was obvious that there were residents, and a few vehicles parked among the shacks. Reading up on this, apparently, there is up to 350 of these independent shacks or humpies scattered all through the bushy area. It is hard to believe but during the right season up to 14,000 individuals may use these shacks for cray fishing. Wedge is the name of the town and a small rocky island off the beach is known as Wedge Island. You will not find one-star, let alone five-star accommodation in this town. Very interesting and intriguing place.
The next stop off the highway was the Lancelin sand dunes. An absolute necessity for a 4WD is needed on these ones. You could walk all over them and had we been a bit more energetic we would have. For now, watching those on the quad bikes zoom up and down the hills and standing admiring the pristine white sand stretching for miles was enough. We used what energy we had walking up to a local lookout over the ocean. Nearby a nice little bakery satisfied us with some great pies for lunch. A note, WA make very scrumptious pies, with yummy light fluffy pastry. We endeavour to steer clear of these very frequently available bakeries.
Back in the trusty Mazda once again we decided to head inland to a small town called Hyden for a much appealing tourist attraction. First, we stopped at Gin Gin to visit the Gravity Discovery Centre and observatory. The advertising for this attraction is quite appealing but having now visited we would say it is better suited for educational purposes. The examples of the fundamental forces of gravity provided, are great for hands on fun and we believe together with an overnight stay to learn about the night sky and use the observatory facilities would be worth the trip. As day tourists it is a little disappointing. Many of the displays were not functioning well and the displayed information could have been better. We spent an hour or so there and wandered through the displays but believe there needs to be some work done to entice more people to visit. One area I think kids would love is the leaning tower, here you can recreate a 300-year-old experiment from the top of the tower. We were not enthusiastic to try it and the area surrounding it could do with some sprucing up to bring it to life. Having said that it is worth a visit.
The next leg of our drive took us through many back roads and small towns. Travelling many kilometres via small regional towns, like Coondle and Toodyay we found ourselves wondering where we were going. The road has little traffic, and winds endlessly through state forests, hills, and valleys with little river crossings. It feels like you are miles from anywhere but in fact only a couple of hours from Perth. The countryside is pretty and reminded us of NSW. We were originally heading for Northam and then onto Hyden however after discussion we decided we would change our plans again and head back to Perth after visiting York.
York is the oldest inland town in WA, situated on the Avon River. There were several attractions, so we started looking for a free camp to settle for the night. It was not as easy as expected and late in the afternoon we settled on a RV site in the middle of town hoping a quiet sleepy town would afford us a good night’s sleep. It was a pretty sight just near the Avon River. A much-needed trip to the IGA and a little drive around the quaint little town finished our day.
Alas the sleep could have been better as we did not consider the workers leaving in the early hours of the morning crossing the local road bridge nearby.
It was the 1st of May, the actual date of my birth so a prompt decision to have a nice leisurely breakfast in town to celebrate made us scurry to pack up. My thoughts were of eggs Benedict and hot brewed coffee, I would soon be enjoying. You must admit Weetabix and fruit can get a bit boring after a while.
We drove straight to town, had a look around the nearby park and started a walk around some of the heritage buildings. After a leisurely stroll down the main road, I discovered my mobile phone was missing and had convinced myself I had left it in the public toilet back in the park. I was still very stuffed up with the cold and struggling with a tight chest but could not imagine surviving without my phone. We hurriedly turned back to the park to find my phone. Breathing heavily, I checked our car first and thankfully a sigh of relief as I found it sitting on the seat. My much-needed breakfast was foremost in my thoughts, so we trotted off to find the nearest café. To our absolute dismay we were confronted with one coffee shop with preheated toasted sandwiches and no atmosphere at all. We removed ourselves quickly and wandered down the main road trying to satisfy our needs. There was nothing and so my lovely birthday breakfast was not experienced that day. We had a takeaway coffee and decided to wait for the next town. We had a couple of small sites to see, some photographing of more heritage buildings and we were on our way again.
Our new destination being Perth we headed back along the Great Southern Highway where we found ourselves driving through the Mundaring State Forest. We came across the Mundaring Weir, apparently one of the world’s greatest engineering projects. It was finished in 1903 as the start of the water pipeline which pumped water 700 kilometres away to the goldfields of Kalgoorlie. The area surrounding is ideal for picnics, , canoeing, swimming and many walks. It was midmorning on a sunny day so ideal to walk across the dam wall to look out onto the heritage museum down below and then stare out at the bright blue water surrounded by the deep green of the bush hugging the waters edge on either side. We spent an hour or so just enjoying the pleasant surroundings and the peacefulness of the entire area. It was a nice surprise for the day.
We headed down the highway for the Lesmurdie falls which I expected to be the highlight of the day. Unfortunately, the falls were not falling, and the walk was steep and hot so not exactly what we were looking forward to. The national park was however surrounded by some beautiful expensive looking homes with great views toward the city of Perth. Accommodation was our next venture which again proved harder than expected. We were looking for a caravan park reasonably close to Perth at a acceptable price that was not booked out. Again, everything was heavily booked. Increasingly this was the case even though it was not holiday period. This caused me to ask the question why. A receptionist at one of the parks informed us that many people were living permanently in the caravan parks due to the rising expenses and lack of available properties. This made sense and made us realise we would have to be more organised over the next few weeks of travel. Eventually we found our spot at a place called Coogee “ pronounced Coo G” outside of Fremantle. One advantage of the caravan parks where there is a heavy permanent residence is that they are very clean and very quiet. We settled into this one for a few days. That night we went to a restaurant for a relaxing birthday dinner. After trying a couple of places which were unsatisfactory, we settled on a restaurant and enjoyed a couple of wines with our very tasty meal.
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Hut Lagoon-Pink LakeConvict RuinsSanford House Lynton WACorella’s at Ellendale PoolAerial view of Ellendale PoolCervantes WAOceanside at The Lobster Shackbirds seated on Stromatolites at Thetis lakeThetis lakeThe Pinnacles Nambung Nat ParkStrange shapes of The PinnaclesAnother city of PinnaclesOne of three Emu’s visiting the PinnaclesMundaring WeirLancelin DunesThe Avon River York WAThe streets of YorkGin Gin Gravity centreGin Gin leaning TowerResident shack of Wedge WAHeritage building York WAView of Perth city from LesMurdie Falls Which way does the wind blow in Lynton WA
. We had been travelling for 4 weeks now and loving every minute of it. The majority of these photo’s have been taken by Ken with his D3100 Camera. He has a great eye and captures the essence of every place we go to. I do take photo’s with my trusty Iphone XR, but I tend to like quirky scenes which I will post in a separate blog.
The next day we were going to explore Perth CBD, Fremantle and then move along the coast to Esperance. See part 4 for our continued escapades.
Thanks for reading once again. Leave a comment and give it a thumbs up.
In Part 1 we had called into the roadhouse at Cocklebiddy, before leaving I felt compelled to ask the shopkeeper if the population of eight shown on the sign was genuine, she assured me it was and quickly rattled off their names one by one. She added that occasionally there was more in busy times, The 8 residents all worked and resided at the roadhouse. Lovely friendly people who said it was difficult to survive sometimes. Covid nearly killed them, but they just kept on going. True-spirited Aussies doing it tough.
We were in the last stretch of the Nullabor. With another 219 km driven, we pulled up at yet another roadhouse. Quite a lively place with a caravan park, motel, and petrol station. Balladonia where we had been advised to check out the museum apparently centred around the Skylab crash in 1987.
The museum was neatly presented although only a tiny section of the somewhat small display was concentrated on the Skylab crash with a replica of a part of Skylab. Not exactly authentic but interesting. It’s a good rest stop and breaks the long drive, other than that we cannot be more generous about it. On the last stretch now to Norseman. This is probably the most tiring section being another 220kms and I have to say less interesting landscape than previously. So, the Nullarbor is done, and the anticipation is now gone. The sense of achievement is good and the realisation that it is not hard, not boring and in fact quite interesting. The rest of our trip will see us cover many more kilometres of long stretches which would easily challenge the degree of difficulty of the Nullarbor.
Leaving the Nullarbor, we are heading further into the outback to visit the mining areas on our way to Exmouth. The first stop is Kalgoorlie, nearly 200 km from Norseman WA. The road was good, but the landscape was very sparse all the way with very few signs of civilisation. Out of the blue, a sign for a café grabbed our attention. We turned left and drove a couple of kilometres to our amazement we came across a small town with every facility you could need, Motels, a caravan park, Woolworths, a gym, and sports ground, etc. I believe the town was Coolgardie, but we have no idea where the residents resided. Later in our trip, we realised there are a huge number of mines pretty much hidden all over the countryside and other than the odd fence sign you would not know they were there. Obviously, a lot of workers needed supplies, hence the town of Coolgardie.
Next, we arrive at Boulder/Kalgoorlie. My first thoughts are it is a grubby town with lots of old equipment, old buildings, and disjointed infrastructure. Pretty much what we expected. We immediately came across the road to the Super Pit. It was blowing a gale at the top of the hill but thankfully there is a large, covered area over the information boards and a fantastic viewing platform that looks over the mine. Taken from one of the boards:- “In June 1893, Paddy Hannan, Thomas Flanagan, and Dan Shea found nearly 100 ounces of gold in the dry red soil of what is now Kalgoorlie-Boulder. This sparked a gold rush and the discovery of the area known as the Golden Mile, which is one of the richest gold deposits in the world. By 1903 there were 49 operating mines, 100 headframes and more than 3,000 km of underground workings on the Golden Mile.”
Looking through the window you are faced with a huge deep cavernous hole with walls layered in varying gold, red, grey, and brown layers of colour. Dotted with yellow trucks together with red and yellow hard hats, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Leggoland with model trucks using makeshift roads to move the endless piles of potential gold from one layer to the next. Surreal and yet an actual working masterpiece. After checking out some of the older buildings in the town we stocked up on fuel and groceries. I have to say there was a large contingency of Aboriginals congregating around the local community centre and shopping centre who were becoming quite boisterous we did hasten our steps a little.
As we were moving into more remote places, we decided a map of WA was a good idea. The mobile had been good to date, but when there is no reception and many km of road seemingly going nowhere a printed map is vital. Popping into the Information centre, I had a chat with the local expert and found out about a couple of interesting sights to visit as we continued along this Golden Mile. Approximately 8 km out of town we pulled onto a dirt road and drove a couple of km when we came across a very large circular tin structure. Two large openings and bench seating following the curve of the shed led our imagination to a very verbal and boisterous game of two-up. I believe considerable dollars had changed hands here on many occasions. To the right was a dilapidated tin lean too with a painted sign “Mens” and further over another sort of structure which we believed to be the ladies although not marked as such. The interesting part is knowing that this dusty piece of land was still being frequented every Sunday in the present day. I can only imagine the value of the cash passing hands today.
A little while later we turned off the highway at Broad Arrow to visit the local tavern. Nothing much there but a whole lot of evidence of who had been there. The beer was cold, and the locals came and went. Both the inside and the outside walls were totally covered in scribbled names and messages. Not a patch left bare that I could see. Such an intriguing establishment. The stories that must have been told on those bar stools would surely be worth hearing.
Menzies is another tiny town, and we were only passing through on our way to see the sculptures on Lake Ballard. It was late afternoon when we arrived but just enough time to check out a couple of the 51 iron sculptures placed all over the 7 square kilometres of this vast Salt Lake. Absolutely fascinating concept. If the rain had fallen it would have been a red muddy and unpleasant walk, but we were in luck it was dry and hard and therefore easy to navigate. Free camping is allowed, with drop toilets available. The night was pitch black with the stars shining brightly. There was absolute silence even though there were several caravans and campers scattered around. The next morning, we woke to a clear day, and an eagerness to explore. Antony Gormley was the British artist responsible for the stark black steel family of sculptures. Apparently, each one represents previous residents of the town of Menzies. They are all a little different, men, women, and children each now connected by the millions of footprints in the red salty ground. What also makes It interesting is the out-of-place conical-shaped hill that seems to rise out of the dry Salt Lake. Covered in scrub and rocks it was quite a scramble to the top which I did attempt but gave up very quickly. Ken managed to climb up about ¾ of the way but the continuance of little avalanches of rocks deterred him from reaching the summit.
Another pleasant sight was a young boy on a bicycle having a lot of fun riding on the Salt Lake and a large brown dog expelling a lot of energy running endlessly over the dry lake.
After returning to Menzies our next stop was Kookynie town. It has been labelled a ghost town but the fact that 20 people still lived there refutes that fact. It was quite a way off the highway and a little disappointing once we arrived. History depicts a flourishing and vibrant working town and certainly, you can see the remnants of that, but many of the buildings have fallen apart and replaced with information boards. There are some brilliant rusted-out vehicles together with plant and machinery. The brochures indicate the town is growing and I hope for their sake this is correct however I do doubt its prospects. A drive out to the Niagara Dam surprised us by actually having water in it, to date we had seen a lot of dry water holes. It was quite hot and dry but an easy walk across the dam wall. Apparently, as soon as work started on building the dam, the town discovered an underwater bore and therefore the dam was not actually needed. Such a waste but hopefully as Wikicamps has it listed it will be enjoyed by more travellers as a free camp down near the water’s edge under the shade of the trees.
Gwallia is a mere 152 km north and it is an actual Ghost Town. Right on its edge is another very large mining exploration happening today. Luckily, they have seen fit to preserve the buildings of Gwallia as they were. There is a grand hotel, some old shops, houses, and other establishments. We visited the reasonably thorough Museum of the Times, with a café in the old heritage home visited by Edgar Hoover before his USA presidency. It was beautifully preserved, and the tea and scones would have been thoroughly enjoyed had we not been sitting on the wide-open veranda which had a pleasant breeze to cool us down but unfortunately, the flies had the same idea. an Australian staple we were quickly tired of. Time for working and washing again so we booked a caravan park at Leonora,10 minutes from there.
The advertising for Leonora was such that I was expecting a well-looked-after town with some interesting things to see. I can honestly say this was not our experience. The people we encountered were lovely but there was little to see and the caravan park we were booked into had razor wire topping the entire perimeter. This is a little unnerving. The party started late afternoon/ early evening as some of the locals become extremely verbal. A lot of screaming, aggressive music and abusive language continued through the night. We were going to stop for 2 nights but chose to limit it to one and hopefully find a free camp further along. I did manage to get some work done, the washing finished, and we had showers so no complaints but obviously did not sleep well that night.
Our plan at this stage was to continue our way to Karijini national park despite the current cyclone off the coast of WA above the national park. We were following it closely but at this stage, the forecasters were indicating a move to the Northern Territory, so we stayed on our planned itinerary.
Our next main stop was Mount Magnet some 432 km to the west. About 280 km along we pulled off just before the town of Sandstone following an advertised tourist trail. Sandstone was formerly a gold rush town and later nearly a ghost town, however in 2021 its population was 109 people who apparently are very proud of their town as the homes are neatly kept and overall, the town is nicely laid out and well looked after. Its claim to fame today is the greatsights you see on The Heritage Trail. Just two of the things we liked were The London Bridge and the Cave Brewery. London Bridge is aptly named and worth the drive. The scenery is wonderful and needless to say a frequently photographed tourist attraction. The Brewery is intriguing. Developed by an Irishman who built the pub at the top of the mound of limestone rock and then ran the pipes down to the cave below to keep the barrels cool. This place is very remote and hard to imagine people going that far for a cold beer. Ken pointed out there would have been many gold seekers in need of a thirst-quenching beer after the tiresome effort of searching for their fortune all day in the summer heat. It was getting to mid-afternoon, and we hurried on to our free camp which was not far out of Mount Magnet. Once we arrived it was a little rockier than the reviews on Wikicamps and of course, while trying to decide on the spot we gashed a rather large hole in the front tyre. We were just over half an hour from town, but it was late in the afternoon. A quick call to the local mechanic led us to believe he may be able to get us a replacement tyre. Hurriedly changing the tyre to our space-saver spare tyre, we drove the distance to the town. Alas when we got to town, he had closed along with the rest of the town, so we had to stay at a caravan park. Luckily, we were able to find a spot. Again, another caravan park that was monitored by police. A couple of phone calls the next morning convinced us we needed to drive the 350k to Geraldton as nothing was available anywhere else. As it turns out our plan was to head for Karijini national park, but we were concerned as a cyclone had crossed into an area a couple of hundred k’s short of where we were headed. At least going to Geraldton, we would miss the bad weather from the cyclone but sadly we would miss the opportunity to see Karijini National Park. This was bitterly disappointing but unfortunately, we had no choice.
So off we went, bright and early and made it to Geraldton in time to get the new tyre. Thank you to Tyrepower who fit us in, changed our tyres around so they were evenly matched and did not overcharge us. A consolation was that the cyclone did in fact hit land nearer to our original destination than we would have liked so we were saved from some very treacherous weather by heading to the coast.
While in Geraldton we checked out the memorial for HMAS Sydney. This is quite large and beautifully designed. The gardens surrounding it are nice and the lookout is quite appealing. Leaving here we drove down to the Esplanade. The sun was hot, and we stretched our legs with a walk to the end. Here we found a huge Crystal ball on display. Depending on the angle you can see your reflection and the ocean through the glass. Really neat and different.
Now where to stay, it was getting late, so we headed just out of town to a camp referred to as an Eco camp. We drove in and there was a house unattended and a sign to say park and leave your donation. Showers, toilets, and a camp kitchen. We drove around an oval and found some old numbers on trees which we determined were campsites. Picked one which was near the camp kitchen and set up. There was quite a large group just near us who were using the facilities and turned out to be a rowdy bunch. As the facilities looked old and unkept we decided to just use the toilet. I am not sure of the meaning of Eco camp but looked more like ‘Look after yourself Camp’. We were up and out of there early the next morning.
Another long 480km north and we arrived at our destination, Carnarvon, we found an inexpensive caravan park that was run by a young woman who was super happy and a very hard-working lady. We stayed here 3 nights as I had work to do and we needed time to just catch up with washing, shopping and to relax a little. Once again, we expected a larger more commercial town. There was a nice esplanade, some small gift shops and coffee places and more industrial-style businesses but otherwise, an ordinary town. We must mention though that we did visit the Space and Technology Museum which proved very entertaining with hands-on activities and a wealth of information. This was a tracking station for early space missions such as Gemini, Skylab and Apollo. It was easy to spend a couple of hours going through all the exhibitions. A very worthwhile visit. It appears small but is jammed pack with interesting and interactive highlights.
Having sorted ourselves out and prepared supplies for our 5 days at Exmouth we left on the 18th to head for our eclipse headquarters. It is 364 km to Exmouth and other than a coffee break we drove straight through. Getting close to the Exmouth turnoff Ken saw a hawk in the sky and just happened to comment that he had not seen an eagle for some time. As if by magic we passed 5 eagles hovering over roadkill on our right. As it happened Ken checked the km at that point and realised it had changed dramatically as we were going the wrong way. We had to turn back and as we drove toward the point where the eagles were feeding, we stopped and Ken walked quietly down to try for a photo. He was rewarded generously as one very large eagle held back until the last minute and he was able to photograph the eagle in flight. It was a brilliant photo and very unexpected. We of course were quite happy that we had missed that turn-off.
It was amusing to see the many traffic warnings along the way. There were many warnings of traffic delays due to upcoming events, and frequent roads blocked off. We personally experienced no delays of any kind and drove easily to the entrance of the overflow camp where we had booked along with hundreds or possibly thousands of others. We were cordially welcomed and were instructed to follow the man in the high-vis yellow jacket madly peddling his bicycle to our allocated spot. They were very organised, with many helpers and all just as excited as we were. We had a great spot with few vans around us. We did have to be self-sufficient so up went the annex for the first time along with the Joolca shower and toilet tent. The weather was brilliant. Hot but with a nice breeze. It was afternoon so after unpacking we went for a drive to the centre of town to find a pub and a cold beer. We had no trouble and arrived at the Froth Hotel which quite a few others tried out as well. A short drive around town we were able to get our bearings as to where the beach was, our expected viewing site for the Eclipse. It was conveniently within walking distance from our camp. We settled down for the night in anticipation of a mass arrival of campers the next day. As it turned out there was a steady stream, but the area was huge and accommodated everyone very well. We did notice that our little corner was still not crowded out. We were close to an exit which made it very easy to come and go. That morning we had a visit from an acquaintance, Mandy, and her husband Brian. Ken had spoken to Mandy before in relation to a visit we made to Lightening Ridge.
Mandy writes for The Outback magazine for RM Williams. She wanted to ask us about what to expect regarding the eclipse as it was her first experience. They are a happy friendly couple whose company we enjoyed. She will be doing an article, whether we are in it we will have to wait to find out. We hope she enjoyed her first eclipse as we were unable to meet up with her after the event. I am sure she would have been very busy interviewing many people about their experiences.
The morning passed quickly, and we met up with some other friends that evening for a meagre feed of sausage sandwiches accompanied by beer and wine. Earlier in the day we took a drive up to the Vlamingh Head Lighthouse, one of the few places where both sunset and sunrise can be observed over the ocean. We also visited a local beach and went for a brief dip at Town Beach. The water is warm and shallow, and you can walk knee-deep for quite a way out. The next morning was eclipse morning, and it was decided we only needed to move a few metres from our camp. Ken had decided he would not bother trying to photograph as he wanted to be able to watch the eclipse without interference and in the end was very happy with his decision. It is a spectacular experience that everyone should endeavour to see at least once in their lifetime. It is also one of the hardest things to describe and one of the most difficult to put into words. This was my 4th eclipse and Ken’s 6th, of course not all are successful, but all are meaningful. All I can tell you is that if the sky is clear, it is an exceptional occurrence. The sky changes, the moon covers the sun and at the final moment when the sun is nearly completely covered, the image of a diamond ring appears as the last rays push through peaks and valleys Once the sun is completely covered you will see eruptions or prominences sprout out from behind the shadow. As the sun was quite active at the time, we were lucky enough to see white baileys beads and red prominences which were a bonus. This eclipse was very short, only 57 seconds in our position. Within moments there were cheers from the field. The number of cameras clicking at the time would have been phenomenal and the number of photos showing up on Facebook pages later in the day proved the absolute joy of those who were privileged to view it. Certainly, an experience that is hard to forget. Absolutely worth the 5,500 km we had travelled so far. I look forward to 2028 when hopefully we can be a lot closer to home in the Blue Mountains of NSW when this event will occur once again with a 5-minute duration.
It was all over as quick as a wink and there was more to do and to see. We decided to try for a drive to the local national park. Some of the park had been closed off to travellers and much of the park is 4wd only. We drove out not sure of what we were going to be able to see. We passed the lighthouse from the previous day and drove on for many kilometres. Passing several side roads leading to beaches eventually, we pulled over to the Yardie Creek Gorge car park. The walk along the top of the gorge did not look too difficult and was about 3-4 km return. At the opening of the gorge and still, on a flat walking trail, there was a river barge taking people for a leisurely trip up to the centre and back. Together with some kayakers slowly meandering up the gorge, it was quite a serene picture. It was not too far up the track, and you could appreciate the beauty of the area. The high cliffs of red rock meeting the deep blue of the ocean water were worth the effort. The gorge turned around to the left and the track headed up to higher ground which looked quite manageable, until of course it wasn’t. We came across a deep ravine that would have to be navigated if one wanted to get to the top. A little boulder hopping and then a whole lot of rock scrambling got us down and up the other side. I must admit it took a massive amount of self-talk and some encouragement from other walkers to keep me going. I am used to coming up against obstacles in our walks and usually, the challenge means there will be a reward at the end. Part of the problem with this walk was that it was hot, and I had worn a light dress with bike shorts underneath, not the best outfit for climbing. Regardless I soldiered on thinking it would flatten, not long after we came across another canyon to master! Ken turns to me and says just watch where I put my feet and follow on. Well, if my legs were as long as his and I was 20 kilos lighter I would have so much less of a problem. The challenge was met and beaten not without several cries of “I can’t do this“ once again. The sense of satisfaction is tremendous. We find ourselves above the gorge looking down onto the cliffs once again. The wind is blowing, and the sun is beating down as we stand alone looking far and wide across the many ridges. It gives one a feeling of beauty and solitude. It makes you realise just how much of Australia is untouched by humanity. Unfortunately, we had to traverse the same route on the return trip. Of course, we made it back in one piece tired and hungry. A very tasty late lunch at a waterside café and an evening of wine and cheese with our friends saw the day come to an end. Another day exploring the town and our time at Exmouth and this leg of our trip had ended. An early night and early start the next day where we headed back.
Trip to Western Australia – Main purpose is to witness a total solar eclipse in Exmouth WA on 20th April 2023
We are travelling in a Mazda CX5 AWD and towing our new cub explorer, camper trailer. We are travelling for around 7 weeks from Blue Mountains NSW Australia, through South Australia and onto Western Australia. There is a lot to see so I will be writing this as I go in sections.
Hazelbrook, Blue Mountains to Broken Hill.
Currently writing this blog while crossing the Nullarbor Plains. An experience I would never have contemplated over the last 70 years.
It is interesting that the feeling we have when leaving Ceduna, the start of the Nullarbor, is one of excitement, given that we have just travelled over 2000km from Sydney via Broken Hill, Port Augusta, Gawler Ranges, along many long roads with very little distraction to break the endless plains. Stretching for hundreds of kilometres either side of the road . The prospect of continuing that pattern with even less obstacles to take the eye away from the endless broken white line should seem daunting, rather than exciting.
Of course, so far along the way there has in fact been points of interest which could easily be dismissed if your mindset does not appreciate the history or the beauty of the Australian landscape.Starting off from home the rain was gently falling, leaving us with a feeling of trepidation. We left at 7.30am with a 7 to 8 hr drive ahead of us.The prospect of our first night being one in the rain was not exciting. Never fear as we left Sydney we left the rain behind us. Cobar NSW approximately 600 kms being our first stop.The first day of driving was passing through towns familiar to us so little to report. What we did experience later in the day was the massive wide load trucks transporting machinery across the countryside. These require lead warning vehicles to clear the road. We came across several, some with 2 or 3 lead cars. Each time there is a need to slow down, pull to the side of the road or even stop. Add to this the very lengthy road trains which are frequent and constant, it makes a long drive interesting.
Entering Cobar, you are confronted with a huge rusty iron, town sign representing the look of the mining industry in all its glory.
Our main purpose here was to find a free camp for the night. We relied on the wiki camps app and headed to Cobar Reservoir, where we were pleasantly surprised to find a beautiful spacious campground surrounding a reservoir of water in the centre. Once setup we took a walk around the water to stretch our legs before settling down with a cool glass of wine and a relaxing evening. It was a quiet, free, and safe spot.
The next morning, we planned an early getaway, anticipating another long drive to Broken Hill. Along the way we visited Mt Grenfell historical site. Passing, many goats, kangaroos, and emu’s the drive was pleasant and a short walk from the car park we were able to site a significant show of aboriginal art under a few overhanging rock formations. Pushing on we stopped for petrol at Wilcannia. Such a surprising place, the contrast of preserved historical sandstone buildings next door to abandoned residence’s and dilapidated, bordered up shops. It created a vision of beauty and a yet a feeling of sadness. Even though the town itself sits along a running river, appears to have some pretty parks the distances to travel for work would surely pose a problem for the towns people to thrive.
With 200 km to Broken Hill we had a quick lunch and hit the road with the hope of getting into another free camp for the night. We were not so lucky This time. It was our intention to stay at a caravan park within the “Living Desert Sculptures” We had a quick stop for some supplies, then headed out to our destination. As we arrived at the gate, we were told we needed to book online. The ranger pointed us in the direction of the sculptures at theTop of the hill as the reception was better. Alas once there we discovered nothing available for that night. As it was late in the afternoon Ken quickly took some photos of the sculptures and we headed back down to town to secure a spot to sleep. As it turned out the free camps were a distance from the town. We settled on Broken Hill Caravan Park at the end of town. The cost was $35 but we had the luxury of very spacious and clean showers and toilets. Not surprising at all was how warm flowing water over the body is very soothing at the end of a long dusty drive.
Broken Hill has a few good attractions, one being, The Living Desert Sculptures as mentioned. Worth the trip to photograph the unique sculptures.The second recommended site would be Pro Hart Gallery. We did not visit as we were short on time, however we have been before, and it is an interesting experience whether you like his art or not. The third thing worth mentioning is the recent addition of a memorial to the miners in the area. Placed high on the mounds of iron ore rising above the town there sits a sombre dark brown iron like structure surrounded by memorabilia of old disused mining equipment. There are information boards along the walkway. A viewing platform gives a magnificent view of the entire city and a very expansive view of the mine areas. The names of all the miners are listed. Those who having given their lives in various ways to the harshness of the surrounding land which provides many of us with the standard of living we possess today. A memorable display with a red roses lining the columns of many names of miners from near and far. Noted were the different reasons for dying and how that changed over the years.
Broken Hill to The Nullarbor.
Our first stop is a town called Peterborough (originally known as Petersburg ) a small but pretty town focused on their train heritage. The houses are small, brick and reasonably well kept. A few plagues around the centre of the town were nicely displayed and gave a brief story of the history . We did not take the time to go through the museum but I am guessing a train enthusiast would be happy to browse it. Another fleeting stop to take a photo of the Manna Hill station Hotel. A town of no population so not sure why such a gorgeous building exists. I have been unable to find anything much about it. We were in fact trying to make it to Port Augusta so we hurried on. Closing in on our destination the skyline was dotted with hundreds of wind turbines. Huge structures which in the right place, can look quite aesthetic. Another thing noticed on the road in and out of Port Augusta was quite a few trucks towing bulk kayaks or canoes. We are assuming there is a boat building factory there., as yet we are still debating that question. Lots of hours on the road together creates lots of interesting conversations.
Port Augusta is a busy commercial working town with a military base and airport. I did expect it to be a bit more picturesque than it was. There was major work happening on the main bridge crossing the river which disrupted the traffic flow a little. A quick stop for supplies and we headed to our next free camp. This proved a small challenge. Instruction was to go passed the military base and we would see the turn off to Question Mark Hill. The clue was in the name. The Hill in question was not huge so we missed the tiny blue caravan sign. After a second attempt we found our spot. Very isolated but looked quite safe. There was a sign on the fence running along the open area, warning us about the unexploded bombs in the area and therefore no access. We just hoped they got the fence in the right place. We settled down to be presented with a beautiful sunset, a powerful storm in the distance and a rainbow against the brightened sky. Quite spectacular half hour. We spent the evening watching the huge road train lights glide along the very distant highway. The area was dark and other than the glowing lights of human existence on those trucks , the stars were our only neighbours. The night was silent, but the morning bought unexpected rain. Up until now we had been able to neatly pack up our gear each day which was not the case today. We shoved everything in wherever we could, quickly folded down the camper and headed off to find some breakfast and much needed coffee. No problem as we pulled up to get petrol a restaurant beckoned us. After a Big breakfast which would see us through to dinner, we were off to see the sites. The Flinders Ranges Red Cliffs lookout which is among the Desert National Park. in Port Augusta. On the drive into the car park we had to wait on the way for the little family of kangaroos having a meeting in the middle of the road. Not the first time we had encountered this common occurrence. The area beckoned us to walk along the cliff edge to view the cliffs and the bridge over the river. The deep red of the cliffs are a contrast to the grey mangroves which lap at their feet, add to that the blue of the water and you are faced with a picturesque scene. The desert gardens surrounding us display many of the species the naturalist Robert Brown examined and collected from the area in 1802. These species were completely new to science at that time.
On the road again and 150kms west brings us to Kimba. Driving into the town there are signs for the Silo Art , the Big Galah, and the sculptures. Petrol is needed so we headed to the Big Galah. Quickly noticing the silo, we stopped to photograph yet another typical country scene appropriate to the area. The silos are huge, and the information plaque informs us how much paint, how long it took and the name of the artist. They are always fascinating, and we, personally think they are a piece of beauty decorating the harsh reality of the imposing cement of the silos. I must mention the dreaded march flies at this point. We have encountered them before and found they love our blood way too much. In our opinion they are a large silent destructive annoyance of the Australian outback. They land, bite and are gone and one is left with swelling itchy painful lumps. We kept the bushman’s aerosol handy after that. Next, we introduced ourselves to the very large Pink Galah sitting perched in front of a roadhouse. After taking one of those photo’s you just must take even though you know everyone has one the same. Petrol problem solved we went in search of the advertised sculptures. Stretching our legs, we walked up to the lookout to find a life size iron statue of John Eyre and an aboriginal man by his side. Continuing this road, we headed to the Gawler Ranges national park.
We were aware this area was best travelled in a 4WD however information gained told us it was suitable in places for less than that. It was not too long before we hit the orange dirt of an unsealed road. Even though the camper and the car handled the corrugated rough road, it was a slow and careful drive. 100 km’s later we pulled into a our pre-booked camping spot. No person or vehicle in site, we were happy to see the place completely deserted. No Internet, no people, no traffic. The quietness experienced in these areas is quite addictive. After unpacking we took off on a 4 km round trip walk to a rocky granite outcrop. Some interesting boulders at the end made it worth the effort. The following day we had a long drive around the Park to see what is known as the pipe organ. . On the drive we stopped at a homestead, built, and occupied in the 1800’s. Surprisingly we were able to enter inside. Photos and information posters were displayed giving us a history of the past families and a small window into the way they lived. The surrounding area was interesting and well preserved. The wind was blowing, and the rain was starting to dampen the red earth. The conditions that people lived in were rough enough but the harsh weather in these places would have been unforgiving. Moving on toward the main attraction, the pipe organ rock formation we were disappointed to discover we needed a 4WD to see them. The road was very uncertain. We had the choice of camping another night and trying the next day or moving on. The weather was a deterrent, so we decided to keep going to our next destination. The road out of the park was a lot rougher so we lowered the tyre pressure which made it a lot easier. Luckily the rain diminished and fortunately we spotted a sign to the Pildappa rocks. This was something on our list to see but thought it was further afar. Quickly turning back, we followed the sign and were met with the massive granite rock formations.
The rocks are an impressive sight being the highest and longest wave formation on the Eyre Peninsular. It is pink granite and dates 1500million years. There is some free camping around the area so rush to investigate the entire site. If visiting for the day you are able to drive or walk the perimeter of the rock and in fact can climb to the top. When at the top you can see the countryside for many kilometres. Quite an amazing feeling and certainly not a difficult task. It was a little too windy for us to camp, so we headed back to the main highway very satisfied that we had not missed this natural phenomenon. Further down the road we came across another tourist sign to Tcharkuldu Rock. or boulders. Not expecting to see much we were pleasantly surprised at this large array of boulders. Some sitting precariously looking ready to topple any moment. Another photographers delight and something we had not expected to see. Now to find our next campsite. Once again thanks to Wiki camps we secured a great spot in a town called Wirulla. It was Good Friday so the one shop and one hotel in the town. were closed. We had been looking forward to showers and getting some washing done but at first sign that was not going to be possible, as the shop was the place to pay and secure access to the facilities. We decided we would stay anyway and were lucky enough to be offered an access key by another camper who had arrived the day before. Washing was not possible as no coins available. but the much-craved shower was enjoyed immensely. The red earth which is a major part of this trip so far had started to grind its way into our skin and into everything else.The hot shower made up for the fact that our secret little camp was in fact quite quite noisy for sleeping as the highway trucks were persistant and closer than we thought.
Ceduna, the town at the beginning of the Nullarbor plains were around 140 kms where we stocked up, filled up with petrol and started on the unknown challenge of crossing the Nullarbor. Surprisingly we stopped for petrol and ran into some friends heading the same way. Quite remarkable to actually be in the same petrol station after travelling so far.
As previously started this particular blog was started as we started our journey along this most anticipated road. The Nullarbor plains stretches in full approx. 1100kms. Many years ago, I think to drive it would have been quite dangerous and harrowing. People were afraid for us even today because of the difficulties of others in previous years. We had done quite a bit of research and believed it would not be as difficult as some thought. However the unknown is always a little fearful. . The land is desolate but the number of travellers are prolific. Our first stop was Penong, home of the windmill museum. An arrangement of windmills of all designs and sizes is such a quirky start to this leg of the journey. Moving on the next time to stop is at The Head of the Bite” an obvious description of this lookout. There is a whaling station, visitor centre and a lookout, where in the right season, whales and dolphins can be seen. There is a fee of $8 pp. It is the first glimpse of the ocean and the fascination of seeing what is known as The Great Australian Bite. It would certainly have been worth the money had we seen whales, but it was.the wrong time of the year for us. The view is very nice though. Stopping for petrol at the Nullarbor roadhouse we hurriedly moved onto to what our next free camp would be, on the edge of The Bunda Cliffs, a place we had been. eagerly waiting to see. The view along the cliffs, the contrast of the blue ocean and the wild white waves striking hard against the red, white, and grey cliffs leaves you with the feeling of beauty. and danger simultaneously. No safety fences, no structures inhibiting the view, just the jagged edge of the cliff face meeting the harsh plains of the Nullarbor. There were a few caravans already there. so, we found a spot a few metres back from the edge and opened the trailer. The cliff extends for many kilometres so before the sun set, we went for a long walk up and down the cliff edge. Beautiful experience indeed. As time passed the light wind started to intensify a little and our cub camper canvas walls billowed in and out. It is hard to move your mind away from the thoughts of the van being.lifted and sent over the edge. You know it is not going to happen, but the underlying thoughts remained throughout the night. We awoke early to a beautiful sunrise and an appreciation of having this.experience and the prospect of travelling further. A couple more side roads gave us different views of the cliffs which were all breathtaking. We then reached The Border Village the cross over between SA and WA.
So far there had been long stretches of driving with nothing but low lying scrub for many kilometres but there are many stops. along the way for fuel, food, and places to stay. Certainly, better suited to caravan or campers as there are not only caravan parks but numerous spots for free camping
A very large Kangaroo greets you as you drive into town. Other than that, there is a petrol station and quarantine station. Being stripped of the few remaining veggies we had on board we were able to move on to Eucla to see the
Derelict sand covered postmasters’ residence. There was enough building left to be able to determine the overall size and function but what destroyed the e view was the human element of graffiti. It never ceases to amaze me that people can be so thoughtless and destructive. I cannot fathom what makes scratching your name in a wall satisfying. It is just demoralising to think there are people like that in the world. Walking to the beach behind the hills of the residence you will see a fairly substantial disused jetty built in 1890. A photographic gem. Carrying on we see the famous 90mile sign indicating the longest straightest stretch of road in Australia. There is no
Arguing with that statement. The scenery does not change much, and the road can be seen so far ahead. It is quite surreal. More petrol and coffee stop until we eventually.
Get to Cocklebiddy. A famous sign found at the roadhouse state some interesting facts. See photo below.
Part 2 you will follow us from Norseman at the end of the Nullarbor Plains through to Exmouth WA.
I hope you are enjoying and contemplating doing similiar yourself. So far it has been a wonderful trip and our Cub Explorer has served us well. It is easy to tow, everyday it is getting easier to setup and then the pack up. We have our jobs sorted now.
I have talked about loneliness before and how I think it can be damaging to one’s health. As a senior I feel friendships are always important, but vital as we age. Loneliness can have a devastating effect on ones’ life. A while back my husband and I had dinner with some friends. It was a birthday get together. These are people we have known for quite some years but in more recent years our bond is growing. There is a common interest which has brought us all together and now being in the senior age category, there is more time to socialize and commit to friendships.
As we do become closer questions become more inquiring and conversations are more in depth. For me personally this is a cathartic experience as I love discussions around human behavior, and I find most people’s lives are filled with interesting facts and usually a little drama. My group of friends are fantastic and never push issues or demand answers. I think this is not the same for all though. I can imagine that some friendships could be difficult as certain people like their privacy and don’t feel comfortable discussing personal subjects. On the reverse of that others asking questions can become too intrusive and not know when to stop. After our dinner I found myself thinking how lucky we were to have this group of friends and how difficult it could be if this was not the case. This got me thinking about the process of building and cementing a bond with someone you have just met.
Through previous experiences we learn that to bombard someone with your life story can quickly result in a lost friendship. People need time to digest and contemplate information. All those hidden secrets in one go, can be a recipe for disaster. Experiences vary in life, with some good and others not so good. Where one person finds a story intriguing, the same story can be considered abrasive to another. Some find talking about past events or revealing details of one’s family to be difficult or emotionally draining others have no trouble blurting out their entire history.
We can all look back and remember those people whom we called friends in the past. People who we no longer see or hear from maybe due to differences of opinion or dwindling mutual interests. Friendships do not automatically come with built-in trust and respect. This has to be earned and valued over time. Those who are lucky enough to have long term friendships will have realized this.
As seniors we often find ourselves in the position of having to make new friendships. Loved ones have passed, families have busy lives, the workplace is no longer part of your social network. One of the difficulties I see with this situation is that at this stage in our life, we do not always have the benefit of time on our side. I believe relationships are stronger if we take our time to get to know people. As we age we don’t have as much time to waste so we are impelled to speed up the process. With limited time it can be tricky and often results are not what we expect.
To understand why this happens, we need to look at the process. By this, I mean look at the factors which go into a friendship. Feeling comfortable in conversation, having similar likes or dislikes, mutual values, mutual respect, and acceptance. Not feeling judged, bullied, or intimidated. This is a lot to determine and to digest in a single meeting, so where does one start.
Find out who we are first. When we are young, we hide so much from others and not always intentionally. I believe we do not really know ourselves in our younger adult years. Of course, we think we do, but now having lived to a ripe old age, I realized once I retired and finally had the time to do things, I knew little about myself. Certainly, we know what makes us laugh or what makes us relax but do we truly know what makes us happy. I think we need a lifetime to figure that out.
I know I for one do not worry about what others think as much as I did when I was younger. I am not afraid to say what I like or afraid to disagree with someone. Therefore, when we are older, can we assume that our piers are more open and more honest with their discussions because they are more comfortable with themselves.
Let us hope they are as it speeds up the “getting to know you” part of building friendships.
Having said all that, ask yourself what sort of person you are and what would you like in a friend. Are you a serious person, someone who is a happy go lucky person, do you like books, movies, sports, do you like to drink, party, quiet nights, dinner. If you know yourself than you will know what type of friend, you seek. Next time you join a new group or meet a new person, listen with interest to what is being said. Often, we are preparing our input, or our next question and we miss what is actually being relayed. When you really hear what someone is saying the response becomes automatic.
If you really do not know what you like, then the fun is in trying new challenges. If you don’t like it you now know a bit more about yourself. You will figure it out eventually and hopefully make a whole group of new friends.
As this is sounding a bit like a relationship seminar, I will not bore you further but I hope I have helped someone out there who is struggling with the thought of making friends.
A question to answer or just to ponder.
The saying “we should accept everyone for who they are” what does that mean to you?
To me it means everyone is an individual and has the right to represent themselves however they want. We should accept them as part of the world in which we live and afford them the same rights as ourselves. We should not criticize them just because we have different thoughts to them, however we do not have to be best friends with them either. I would love to hear thoughts on my comments. Feel free to comment and subscribe if you want to see more of my ramblings.
It is not my intention to write every event we will be having in the camper trailer. This was our first experience, so I think it was noteworthy.
The astronomy club we belong to have a property near Ilford NSW. Its purpose is purely for astronomy but many of us enjoy the social side of meeting up with friends with a similar interest. The property has all the facilities you want, showers, toilets, and a fully functional outdoor kitchen together with very spectacular wood fire. We took the easy way out to try the new trailer knowing we had complete backup on hand.
Arriving early evening on the Thursday it was cold and windy. We were not exactly prepared for it, understandably, it was the middle of January 2023. It had rained on and off on the drive up to the site, so we quickly got started on the setup. Opening the camper was easy and went smoothly. We then attacked the awning with a few teething problems. Before too long we had unloaded the car, made the bed and were ready to cook. We had a few visitors coming over to check up our setup, so it was late when dinner was finally started. Ken put on the steak, and potatoes, added some pre-chopped salad veggies, followed by some beer and wine and we were ready for our first nights sleep. The wind was certainly putting a chill in the air now. Lying in bed I was quite chilly and needed more clothing under the thin doona. I admit I tossed and turned a lot that night. It was not the best sleep and I worried this was going to be something I would not handle well. I am a person who likes her sleep and her comfort. The problem was solved the next day by using the very good sleeping bags we had stored in our old caravan on site. I can assure you I woke the next day feeling very relieved. That morning, we saw blue sky and sun during the day but were hampered by winds once again. Some bacon, eggs, tomato, and mushrooms together with some hot coffee filled our bellies and helped to get the day started. We spent the day setting up our Joolca shower tent and toilet alcove not without having to refer to the instructions of course. It’s always simple once you figure it out. What made it a lengthy event was putting it in the wrong place and the leads and fixture would not fit. After realising this we swiftly moved it to the other end of the camper. Testing out the shower was fun and reassuring. We also set up the porta potti and of course tried that out also. All worked beautifully. the rest of the day we relaxed a bit playing on the Ipad and catching up with friends as they arrived for the weekend. That night Ken cooked up a chicken caciatore casserole, we drank some more wine with friends around the fire and headed to bed ready for a solid sleep. We were a lot warmer and slept more soundly that night. It was all a learning experience and a fun one at that.
Saturday, we went with cereal and coffee and prepared to head to Mudgee for a light lunch, a trip to Woollies and Bunnings before a sunny afternoon drive via the beautiful wineries and valleys surrounding us. That night we were feasting on beef curry casserole which was very scrumptious. Ken has become a bit of a master since we bought the Webber Baby Q. He has tried a good variety of recipes and this one stood up to the test. A friend offered some Panettone cake and rocky road chocolate for a pleasant finish. Another night with great conversation around the fire with a glass of wine. We retired to a comfortable bed and listened to the rain pattering on the roof overnight.
We were able to use lots of the accessories we had purchased and at this stage felt we had not wasted money, and all had worked efficiently. Although some warmer weather would have been welcomed, we were in fact able to try things out in less ideal conditions. Our last day, Sunday, was cold and wintery with cycles of rain and wind hampering activities. We had breakfast, an omelette and bacon, took our time over coffee, fair-welled a few people heading home and then idly sat appreciating the quietness of the day. After lunch we decided to watch a movie, which was quite a cosy experience in the camper. Overall, a leisurely day ending with Pizza for dinner.
We started our final morning with an easy breakfast of cereal and coffee. We figured we would pack up and then have our second cup of coffee an hour later. Unfortunately, that was not the case. I have to say nothing was hard to do but there was a lot of stuff that had to get packed up and fitted back into the trailer and car the way it started. We all know that never works. How in the world does one get that large piece of floor matting back into that little plastic pouch, I will never know. After several different tries at folding, quite a bit of groaning on my part, the result was the casing ending up lying on top. We found ourselves making many trips walking back and forth with single items which needed to be packed in Bin 1 or Bin2. In future the rule will be to put things back where they came from at the time of use, another lesson learned.
We had it done in 2 hours which is not that bad but also not good if you need to get on the road early. We learnt from the experience and now know we must do a little the night before and a little more planning in the future.
We headed back home via Wallace Lake so we could look at their free camping grounds for our next short stay. Stopping at the local take away for hamburgers and coffee. The park surrounds a glorious lake and has many shady trees to camp under. We were able to find an outdoor table and bench under a shady tree to enjoy our lunch and were pleasantly surprised at the beautiful peaceful surrounds.
There is a great park for the kids, a lot of open space for walking and exploring. We noticed lots of people fishing along the waters edge. Generally speaking a very pleasant are. Practically speaking we noted toilets and we think there were showers also. a dump site and rubbish bins to be able to offload.
We headed back home feeling the whole weekend was a relaxing learning experience and left us feeling confident with our next adventure.
Staring out from homeOur set-upThe KitchenThe BedroomThe ViewThe surroundsThe NeighboursThe mealsThe Pack UpLake WallaceLake Wallace
I hope you enjoy this little insight into our world. I look forward to your comments. Do you have a camper trailer or caravan. What has been your favourite spot to camp. What is your tastiest camp meal. We are embarking on a trip to Western Australia in April this year 2023 for 6-8 weeks. Any comments and advise are welcome. Please give this a thumbs up before you leave.
This is the third largest country in South America
Population nearly 27million.
Language-Spanish, Quechua, Aymara and various dialects of the Amazon Jungle
Three natural regions :- The coast, the highlands and the jungle.
Another flight and we find ourselves in Guayaquil airport where we are staying close by at the Holiday Inn. An early flight the next morning took us to Lima, the capital of Peru. Founded by the great conquistador Francisco Pizarro in 1535. Our hotel was in Miraflores, 30mins drive from the airport. Most of the drive is along the ocean front. A beautiful introduction to one of the more affluent districts that make up the city of Lima. It is a town known for its shopping, restaurants, and nightclubs and popular with the tourists. That afternoon we wandered from our hotel down to the Parque Del Amor, on the water’s edge. Checked out the shopping, the fantastic views over the water, beautiful parklands and watched a picturesque sunset. The next morning, we were up early for a tour of the city of Lima which proved very interesting. The first main attraction was the San Francisco Monastery. A glorious Barrroque building known for its boned-lined catacombs( containing an estimated 70,000 remains). A spectacular cupola or dome over the main staircase was carved in 1625 out of Nicaraguan Cedar. After visiting the main square Plaza Mayor, Government Palace, and many more major sites of Lima we headed down to the Huaca Pucilano, the adobe pyramid that was ancient Lima’s ceremonial heart. This is a most fascinating place to see and with a very informative guide, we learnt the history of this massive excavation site. A more detailed account can be found on the website http://huacapucllanamiraflores.pe/huaca-pucllana-hoy/ This site was amazing to walk through and to be able see the massive works being meticulously completed to their original status.
The afternoon was free time, so we tackled the huge local markets, wandered through Spanish style buildings and colourful streets, and then investigated a local art gallery. With tired feet we headed back to our hotel for a fine dining treat after which we fell into bed exhausted.
The next morning, we are picked up for our flights to Cusco and then driven to our Sacred Valley of the Incas (8500feet elevation) accommodation. The river valley is very fertile with lush green slopes surrounded by mountains in the distance. Our hotel was very pretty and as rest was recommended at this stage, to allow our body to adjust to the altitude, we had no problem taking it easy and enjoying some much-needed quiet time.
The following morning, we headed out with our guide to visit the people of Chinchero and visit the Inca’s Balcony. We were treated to a tour of the streets, introduced to occupants in traditional dress and shown the ancestral way in which they process the wool and how they obtain the vivid colours used in their textiles. Chinchero is an ancient town and a wonderful place where you can still feel and see the Inca culture as it was in the past. The streets are tiny, the people are beautiful, and the way of life is simple. I was fascinated by the cute three wheeled vehicles known as Moto Taxi’s Of course, there were markets to wander through, souvenirs to buy and many stairs to climb. A glorious ancient church to investigate and time to watch the various breeds of Lama’s grazing.
A light lunch and back on board our bus to visit Ollantaytambo, one of the most monumental architectural complexes of ancient Inca Empire. It is well known for the terraces dug into the slopes of the mountains. The terraces were used for agricultural purposes. The terraces are quite large and high. Unfortunately, I did struggle to reach the top as the altitude and the sheer height was a little too much. I ventured maybe 3/4 of the way and promptly sat myself down and waited for Ken to return. I feared, if I was struggling with this, would I make it to the top of Machu Pichu. I would soon find out. For now back to our hotel to pack for our trip to Machu Pichu the next day.
Inca Balcony’sInca Balcony”sMoto Taxi’sStreets of ChincheroOne of the many variety of LlamaTraditional Dying of Textiles
Ollantaytambo station is where we board the Vistadome train to take us to Aguas Calientas. The trip is about 1.5 hours in a carriage with panoramic windows to view valleys and mountains throughout the whole trip. Morning refreshments and a commentary keep you entertained. When reaching our destination we are shown to our hotel with a couple of hours to investigate our surrounds. At 12.30 we had to board our bus for Machu Pichhu. We lined up with many other travellers to board the bus for the half hour trip to the mountain top. We headed out of town and started up the mountain drive. The road was quite narrow with no guard rails. On one side, in many places it was a sheer drop to the valley floor, and on the other the looming face of the mountain was close. Taking the bends was a skill known only to our driver and passing other buses on their way down the mountain was a huge challenge. My knuckles were white from clenching the top of the seat in front the whole way. Finally reaching the top safely we alighted with the many other people waiting in line to buy tickets etc. On a booked tour we were lucky enough to get entry quickly.
We had seen the pictures, heard of its grandeur from others but until you are there, you cannot really appreciate its beauty. Machu Picchu is a very special place. It was misty when we arrived which added to its mystique. A guided tour helped us to understand the lives of the priests and their servants and craftsmen who inhabited this citadel. The mystery of the destruction of this settlement remains today as there was no written records kept. Some excavation has discovered skeletons, artefacts and some woollen clothing. Machu Picchu is an Inca citadel set high in the Andes Mountains. Above the Urubamba River valley one feels like they are above the world. Even though surrounded by crowds of people the isolation of the settlement could still be experienced. Built in the 15th century it is renowned for its sophisticated dry-stone walls that fuse huge blocks without the use of mortar. The stonework was intricate and precise. The intriguing structure of buildings that play on astronomical alignments and panoramic views. It is not a place you can describe fully. Photo’s do not do it justice. There is a feeling experienced here that is unique.The scenery is stunning even in misty rain. The trip to get to this place is massive and the intrigue of how anyone ever lived here is mind blowing. We wandered the many tiers and walked the many levels. Our bodies were exhausted and our minds full of wonderment. Another hairy drive back down the mountain, a wander through the streets ending with dinner. Collapsed into our bed that night we slept well satisfied with what we had experienced. The next day started with blue sky and sunshine. Our tickets allowed us a further visit the next morning so Ken chose to head back up the mountain for more photographing. I decided to investigate the town a little more so headed out to discover some history, beautiful architecture, massive markets and the school and shops which the locals call home. I must say they are a very hardworking community with the town being built on the side of the mountain. All deliveries of building materials including bricks for housing, food, supplies of all types are delivered up and down the mountain on hand drawn trolleys and carts. I struggled pulling myself up. Their tenacity is remarkable. The next day we headed back to the station for our very entertaining train trip back enjoying a fashion show of authentic alpaca apparel. Most interesting experience. Overall this last few days were an incredible and unforgettable journey.
Town of Aguas CalientasBus ride to Machu PicchuBeginning of Machu PicchuThe Extraordinary levels of Machu PicchuNear the top of Machu Picchu
I hoped you enjoyed this post. The next leg of our trip part 4 is Cusco, Iguassu Falls in Brazil and Argentina. The final chapter – part 5 will cover Atacama Desert and a visit to Easter Island.
Please feel free to comment if you wish. If you have been to these places I hope you enjoyed them as much as we did.
Enjoying Life as a Senior 