South America Part 3-Peru

January 14, 2023 / Lesley / Leave a comment

South America Part 3.-Peru

This is the third largest country in South America
Population nearly 27million.
Language-Spanish, Quechua, Aymara and various dialects of the Amazon Jungle
Three natural regions :- The coast, the highlands and the jungle.

Another flight and we find ourselves in Guayaquil airport where we are staying close by at the Holiday Inn. An early flight the next morning took us to Lima, the capital of Peru. Founded by the great conquistador Francisco Pizarro in 1535. Our hotel was in Miraflores, 30mins drive from the airport. Most of the drive is along the ocean front. A beautiful introduction to one of the more affluent districts that make up the city of Lima. It is a town known for its shopping, restaurants, and nightclubs and popular with the tourists. That afternoon we wandered from our hotel down to the Parque Del Amor, on the water’s edge. Checked out the shopping, the fantastic views over the water, beautiful parklands and watched a picturesque sunset. The next morning, we were up early for a tour of the city of Lima which proved very interesting. The first main attraction was the San Francisco Monastery. A glorious Barrroque building known for its boned-lined catacombs( containing an estimated 70,000 remains). A spectacular cupola or dome over the main staircase was carved in 1625 out of Nicaraguan Cedar. After visiting the main square Plaza Mayor, Government Palace, and many more major sites of Lima we headed down to the Huaca Pucilano, the adobe pyramid that was ancient Lima’s ceremonial heart. This is a most fascinating place to see and with a very informative guide, we learnt the history of this massive excavation site. A more detailed account can be found on the website http://huacapucllanamiraflores.pe/huaca-pucllana-hoy/ This site was amazing to walk through and to be able see the massive works being meticulously completed to their original status.

The afternoon was free time, so we tackled the huge local markets, wandered through Spanish style buildings and colourful streets, and then investigated a local art gallery. With tired feet we headed back to our hotel for a fine dining treat after which we fell into bed exhausted.

The next morning, we are picked up for our flights to Cusco and then driven to our Sacred Valley of the Incas (8500feet elevation) accommodation. The river valley is very fertile with lush green slopes surrounded by mountains in the distance. Our hotel was very pretty and as rest was recommended at this stage, to allow our body to adjust to the altitude, we had no problem taking it easy and enjoying some much-needed quiet time.

The following morning, we headed out with our guide to visit the people of Chinchero and visit the Inca’s Balcony. We were treated to a tour of the streets, introduced to occupants in traditional dress and shown the ancestral way in which they process the wool and how they obtain the vivid colours used in their textiles. Chinchero is an ancient town and a wonderful place where you can still feel and see the Inca culture as it was in the past. The streets are tiny, the people are beautiful, and the way of life is simple. I was fascinated by the cute three wheeled vehicles known as Moto Taxi’s Of course, there were markets to wander through, souvenirs to buy and many stairs to climb. A glorious ancient church to investigate and time to watch the various breeds of Lama’s grazing.

A light lunch and back on board our bus to visit Ollantaytambo, one of the most monumental architectural complexes of ancient Inca Empire. It is well known for the terraces dug into the slopes of the mountains. The terraces were used for agricultural purposes. The terraces are quite large and high. Unfortunately, I did struggle to reach the top as the altitude and the sheer height was a little too much. I ventured maybe 3/4 of the way and promptly sat myself down and waited for Ken to return. I feared, if I was struggling with this, would I make it to the top of Machu Pichu. I would soon find out. For now back to our hotel to pack for our trip to Machu Pichu the next day.

Ollantaytambo station is where we board the Vistadome train to take us to Aguas Calientas. The trip is about 1.5 hours in a carriage with panoramic windows to view valleys and mountains throughout the whole trip. Morning refreshments and a commentary keep you entertained. When reaching our destination we are shown to our hotel with a couple of hours to investigate our surrounds. At 12.30 we had to board our bus for Machu Pichhu. We lined up with many other travellers to board the bus for the half hour trip to the mountain top. We headed out of town and started up the mountain drive. The road was quite narrow with no guard rails. On one side, in many places it was a sheer drop to the valley floor, and on the other the looming face of the mountain was close. Taking the bends was a skill known only to our driver and passing other buses on their way down the mountain was a huge challenge. My knuckles were white from clenching the top of the seat in front the whole way. Finally reaching the top safely we alighted with the many other people waiting in line to buy tickets etc. On a booked tour we were lucky enough to get entry quickly.

We had seen the pictures, heard of its grandeur from others but until you are there, you cannot really appreciate its beauty. Machu Picchu is a very special place. It was misty when we arrived which added to its mystique. A guided tour helped us to understand the lives of the priests and their servants and craftsmen who inhabited this citadel. The mystery of the destruction of this settlement remains today as there was no written records kept. Some excavation has discovered skeletons, artefacts and some woollen clothing. Machu Picchu is an Inca citadel set high in the Andes Mountains. Above the Urubamba River valley one feels like they are above the world. Even though surrounded by crowds of people the isolation of the settlement could still be experienced. Built in the 15th century it is renowned for its sophisticated dry-stone walls that fuse huge blocks without the use of mortar. The stonework was intricate and precise. The intriguing structure of buildings that play on astronomical alignments and panoramic views. It is not a place you can describe fully. Photo’s do not do it justice. There is a feeling experienced here that is unique.The scenery is stunning even in misty rain. The trip to get to this place is massive and the intrigue of how anyone ever lived here is mind blowing. We wandered the many tiers and walked the many levels. Our bodies were exhausted and our minds full of wonderment. Another hairy drive back down the mountain, a wander through the streets ending with dinner. Collapsed into our bed that night we slept well satisfied with what we had experienced. The next day started with blue sky and sunshine. Our tickets allowed us a further visit the next morning so Ken chose to head back up the mountain for more photographing. I decided to investigate the town a little more so headed out to discover some history, beautiful architecture, massive markets and the school and shops which the locals call home. I must say they are a very hardworking community with the town being built on the side of the mountain. All deliveries of building materials including bricks for housing, food, supplies of all types are delivered up and down the mountain on hand drawn trolleys and carts. I struggled pulling myself up. Their tenacity is remarkable. The next day we headed back to the station for our very entertaining train trip back enjoying a fashion show of authentic alpaca apparel. Most interesting experience. Overall this last few days were an incredible and unforgettable journey.

I hoped you enjoyed this post. The next leg of our trip part 4 is Cusco, Iguassu Falls in Brazil and Argentina. The final chapter – part 5 will cover Atacama Desert and a visit to Easter Island.

Please feel free to comment if you wish. If you have been to these places I hope you enjoyed them as much as we did.

South America 2019 -Part Two-Galapagos Island

August 15, 2022August 15, 2022 / Lesley / Leave a comment

Part Two – The Galapagos Islands – UNESCO Heritage Site

Situated in the Pacific Ocean – 1000km from the Ecuadorian coast of South America,
Approx. 30,000 people live on the islands which make up the Galapagos Marine Reserve.
In 1959, approx. 97% of the emerged surface was declared a National Park.

Leaving Quito, we fly to Seymour Ecological Airport, where all travellers pass through an inspection point to ensure no foreign plants or animal matter are introduced to the island. A guide was to meet us and drive us to the harbour. When we arrived, we had to wait for our bags to be inspected and headed outside the terminal. There was a multitude of buses waiting and guides hustling everyone aboard. We met up with a couple of guys from London whom we found out were going on the same catamaran we were on. We had our tickets and headed for the bus that looked like ours. He took our tickets and hoarded us on the bus. We took off on a bumpy, lengthy drive to the water’s edge. They then hurried us all onto a ferry, hurtling all our bags onto the roof. This all looked a bit dodgy, but everyone seemed to be going with the flow. The ferry boat was very crowded, and it stopped when we were about halfway across the waterway.

Someone passed by everyone asking for a couple of dollars to keep going. It was at this point that we were getting a little worried. We had no cash, so our newly acquainted friends kindly paid for us. The boat continued and pulled up at a jetty, where everyone alighted. No signs and no instruction came our way. Most of the travellers headed off to a bus waiting nearby. We were sure this was not where we should be. Everyone up untill now spoke no English, but we approached a female guide who indicated we were in the wrong place. She would fix it for us and told us to wait on the dock and not go with anyone else. So, we waited, and we waited. We could not get any reception on our phones, so after discussing together, we approached what looked like a security person mingling with a few suspicious-looking gentlemen around a simple timber structure. He spoke very little English but said he would try to call someone. I am not sure how long we waited, but eventually, a second ferry arrived and shuttled us on board. Again, halfway across, they stopped to collect more money. I am guessing they would toss us in the water if we did not pay. Arriving at the dock again, they indicated a bus would take us back to the airport. The only problem was we had no ticket for the bus to return, so we had to pay again. At long last, we unloaded back at the airport and were approached by a guy holding a sign with the name of our catamaran on it. He had been waiting there the whole time. We breathed a heavyy sigh of relief and eagerly jumped onto the correct bus this time.

A short bus drive to the waters’ edge, and we could see our catamaran “The Archipell” safely anchored, waiting for us to board. We were happily greeted by the other guests (two other couples) who had been patiently waiting for the lost party to arrive. The boat was extremely comfortable and beautifully outfitted, and a friendly and experienced crew was looking after us. That afternoon we settled into our room, chatted with the other guests, and waited for the chef to prepare our dinner. The weather was superb, and the ocean was serene. A few drinks, an excellent meal and a few more drinks before we settled down to a peaceful sleep to the rhythm of the sea lapping on the sides of the hull.

While we were sound asleep, the crew were in full force travelling and preparing for our first destination. After a great breakfast, we were allocated our respective inflatable dinghy and started on our journey along the eastern arm of the caldera of Genovesa Island, shouldering the massive 80ft high walls. Landing on a natural platform of rock, we are led up the Prince Phillip Steps, a steep climb to reach the plateau of the crater. We could see and hear the birds overhead, but nothing prepared us for the experience of standing on the surface of natural and unspoilt land.

The birds and animals that inhabit were in abundance. I had been hoping to get just a glimpse of something rare but ended up overwhelmed by the sheer number of birds we could see in a matter of minutes. Our first sightings were that of the silky black feathers of the male Frigate bird contrasted by his vibrant red pouch. The sheer size of these birds soaring through the air is magnificent. Then, sitting and watching the intricate antics the male and female exhibit while mating is quite captivating. Cameras clicked feverishly, thinking this may be our only opportunity. We crept behind the guard, ensuring we stayed on the crude track to avoid disturbing anything. Amazingly we came across a pair of blue-footed Boobies courting each other on the trail. Their ritual is unique; the male lifting his blue webbed feet up and down, waiting for a response, arching, and spreading their wings high over the back, they dance for the female’s attention. They are oblivious of the mere humans standing nearby, this is their turf, and they are not to be disturbed.

We were mesmerised and could have stood there for hours. With more to see, we moved on. Glancing to my right, I saw what looked like a colourful statue of an Iguana. It was within a few feet, maybe two feet long, with a sizeable scaley body. The colour was multiple browns, gold, and yellow. No scurrying away as we stooped to photograph; he just stood, looked at us, and waited for us to move on. This was his land, and we were passing through. Everywhere we looked, there was something to catch your eye. More Nazca Boobies, red, blue, and grey footed, some mating, and many were resting and watching. We came across more Frigates, iguanas and lizards and then, as the area opened a little more, we saw the Cormorants, little Finches, and a few colourful insects. A rough sandy beach stretched between the scrub and the rocks, with the sea spray from the ocean heralding the rocky surface. To our surprise, there was a small colony of fur Seals idling away the day, lazing in the sun and playing in the ocean. More birds, too many to name flew overhead as we started our return journey.

Heading back to the steps to our waiting dinghy was full of thoughts of what we had been privileged to see. The crew were ready and waiting. A light lunch was devoured, and the prospect of seeing all the wonders of the sea below was ahead. Our boat was heading to Darwin Bay. First, the adventurous would be kayaking in the calm and pristine waters surrounding us. I forego this exercise as I did not think I could manage to get in and out of the kayaks. Ken braved it, and with the guides close behind, they all took off briskly, gliding through the water with ease. We waited and watched as they faded from sight. Eventually, returning at what I felt was a much slower pace. Watching their manoeuvre as they pulled closer to the boat, we saw some exhausted and sore bodies. The next challenge, at least for me, was to try my hand at snorkelling. I have never done this before, but I was determined to give it a go. Once again, the guides were so patient and helpful that it was no time before I had it mastered and was transcended to another place. It is stunning to observe a whole world where there appears to be no sense of time passing. My only regret, there were no photos to be able to show the absolute beauty and intrigue of what is just beneath the surface. We all returned to the boat to settle down with a glass of wine, a beautiful sunset, a nourishing three-course meal and a well-earned sleep—what a way to finish our day. If we had to go home right then, we would have been happy, but this was day one with two more full days to come.

Day two – A Day to learn and explore

Bartolome Island, named after Sir Bartholomew James Sullivan, a friend of Charles Darwin, is one of the archipelago’s most visited islands. We landed across a small bay opposite what is known as Pinnacle Rock, a small volcanic cone. Ahead is a 600-metre trail to the summit, some 114 metres up a wooden staircase. Looking up is pretty daunting; however, as you move up the stairway, accompanied by a knowledgeable guide, you are given a running commentary of the plant life, the lizards, and geological wonders along the way. It helps keep you preoccupied and a little more capable of moving onward and upward. I am grateful there was no pressure to hurry and much encouragement to keep going. Reaching the summit is worth the effort. The feeling of accomplishment is substantial, and the view is phenomenal. Looking back down to a panorama of the entire archipelago is a site to behold. The isolation, untouched beauty and the bright blue the ocean gently lapping the rugged volcanic rock is very easy on the eyes. The walk back down was a lot easier but still lengthy, so we were all ready for some refreshments. We returned to the catamaran for another array of delicious snacks and beverages.

Sullivan Bay on Santiago Island was our next stop. It is the youngest of the islands. Geologically it is a volcano islet born out of fire. When stepping on what appears to be a lifeless stretch of rock, one imagines stepping onto the surface of the moon. It looks barren and eerie. The lava flow formations are varied and can look like twisted ropes or giant seashells with swirls on their back. There were broken rocks that resembled petrified wood with circular rings covering the surface. Walking on the surface is safe but tricky as we noticed where the rocks were severed like in an earthquake, and one could see a range of colours deep in the crevices. There are huge hidden holes, and jagged areas butting up against smooth flowing waterfalls of rock. We were wrong in thinking it was a lifeless area as it was alive with various plant life and cactus peering out from among the shiny lava. An occasional lizard would scurry past. We came across a beautiful piece of white driftwood sitting on the black rock, a photographer’s paradise.

We then headed to the beach area for a refreshing swim and a wander along the shore. If you are lucky, you will see the Galapagos giant tortoise heading out from the ocean to their hiding place in the shrubs. Unfortunately, we missed them, but we did see the tracks in the sand on their morning escape to the water’s edge. We also saw a couple of cute lava lizards sun-baking on the rocks. We watched a mother-and-child penguin playing in the water close to the shore. For the next hour, we passed the time by photographing various crabs, frolicking, fighting, building, and resting all over the sand and rocks. Stunning to watch the varying colours of bright reds, vivid orange and mixed burgundy and purple running quickly in and out of the rocks. They range in size from thumbnails to ones larger than the width of your hand. It is captivating to watch the complex behaviour of each one.

That afternoon we stayed on the boat and mingled with the other seven couples. Four of us were leaving the next day, so a slap-up dinner was being prepared for us all. While relaxing on the deck with a much-needed beer, we watched overhead as several Albatross showed us the way, dipping and swerving perfectly with the boat’s movements.

On our last morning, the boat took us to Isla Santa Cruz. We sadly said our goodbyes to those lucky enough to stay longer and headed for our tour bus, which would take us to The Van Straelen Exhibition Centre. Here we visited the breeding and rearing centre for young and adult Galapagos giant tortoises in captivity. The centre provides opportunities to observe 11 subspecies of tortoises up close. In the rearing centre, hatchlings are nurtured and, when possible, released, around four years old, back onto their home islands. Those that cannot be released will find their home at the centre with the adult tortoises. We were able to visit Lonesome George, estimated at 100 to 150 years old. Our time here was over, and the bus took us back to the dinghy, where we made our last boat trip back to the Seymour Ecological Airport. Our luggage had been sent ahead, and our guides once again looked after our transfers, tickets, and flights. We had nothing to do but marvel over the last four days. I would love to say this was the highlight of our trip, but I would be mistaken as we still had so much more to see. What I will say is go if you can. There are several ways to stay and see the Galapagos Islands, and I can safely say whichever you choose would be worth it. It is an extraordinary experience.

I hope you have enjoyed our trip so far. Next we visit Peru-Lima, The Incas and Machu Picchu

Feel free to comment and be sure to follow if you would like to see more.

South America 2019

August 9, 2022August 9, 2022 / Lesley / Leave a comment

Late in 2018, my husband turned 70 and we reached our 50th wedding anniversary. We treated ourselves to this trip to celebrate in style. I personally cannot speak highly enough about the whole experience. From day one we were amazed at the culture, the beautiful people and the spectacular scenery in every country we visited. As this was a non-English speaking continent, we decided to go with a tour company. After a few inquiries we settled with South American Tours www.southamericantours.com.au They work with Condor Travel in South America. I would highly recommend this tour company. Our liaison with them was all via email, they were extremely helpful, versatile and obliging while planning the trip. They were also honest with the advice they gave. Once arriving in SA we found each individual guide was friendly, informative, always on time and immaculately presented throughout the entire trip. We really could not fault them.

Part One Santiago-Valparaiso-Quito

Flight Sydney to Santiago Chile is approx. 14 hours no stops, crossing the international date line.
Santiago is the capital of Chile. The official language is Spanish, and the currency is Peso.
Avge width of Chile is 120miles, length is 3230miles. Population is 15,400,000-36% live in Santiago.
Highlights- Experiencing a new culture, The variety of architecture, the uniqueness of Galapagos.

We arrived at Santiago airport tired but excited and a little wary. We had been given some tips on the potential dangers of arriving in a foreign country.

There are several exit gates, so we followed the crowd which turned out to be a mistake. This was where the dodgy taxi drivers hounded the passengers for a quick dollar. We anxiously scoured the crowds looking for a tour guide holding up our name. Unfortunately, this took a while and a few tense moments. Once we returned at the correct exit, we saw our guide and were immediately relieved. We were whisked away to a comfortable vehicle and an easy, although busy drive to our hotel. We were then left to our own devices for the afternoon/evening to discover a little of the area where we were staying. We quickly settled in and took off to pound the pavements. Such a vast difference to what we were used to. It was a busy town, with many churches, alley ways, old buildings crowded into every available space.Horns honking frequently and the driving was at the least erratic. We noticed electrical cables dangling outside apartment windows with no apparent destination. Windows with broken shutters, some with curtains flapping in the hot air and washing dangling from the ledges. Following our crude map we eventually came across the massive, large city square. The meeting and resting place of all the city dwellers.There was a long corridor of eating places on the side and a massive area to congregate. We were led to believe, after lunch it was common for the workers to siesta on the benches in the square. Hence what we thought may have been the homeless were just those surviving the normal work day. We could understand this as pounding the pavements in the heat of the day is quite draining. After wandering for a few hours, we headed back to our hotel for some much-needed food and rest. The following day a walking and driving tour of the city was booked in, showing us the different aspects of the new and the old, the rich and the poor. Up to San Cristóbal Hill for a panoramic view of the city and its vast array of old and modern architecture. A very informative tour with plenty of time left in the day to explore the many parks and museums of Santiago. That evening we found an area nearby made up of tiny alleys and small streets housing a multitude of cafés from which to choose . Finally selecting one, we scoured the menu to find a few words that we could recognise sufficiently to be able to order a meal. So far, we were doing ok as far as choosing our food and drink. It was early days though and our knowledge was very limited.

The next morning, I awoke feeling little unwell. Was it the sip of water I had or that apple I pilfered from the foyer, I am not sure, but my stomach was feeling a little queasy. However, our car was ready and waiting and so we departed on time for Val Paraiso. Unfortunately, I remember little about the drive as I was very desperately trying to prevent the unleashing of my breakfast all over this very clean car. Thankfully I was able to hold off until we reached our destination. A quick visit to the restroom seemed to help. The residence, namely La Sebastiana, was the home of the Nobel prize winning poet Pablo Neruda. This unique three story building set high on the hill was worth the visit. The stories and artefacts displayed, portrayed a very quaint and artistic personality. Afterward a drive through the colourful labyrinth of hills, which make up Val Paraiso was special and entertaining. It is a university town full of creative people, displaying their art on many of the buildings. We were then left to meander down the hillside and to experience the uniqueness of the funicular railways (two counterbalanced carriages permanently attached to opposite ends of a haulage cable). We then travelled with our tour guide to Vina del Mar, Chile’s fashionable beach resort for lunch and a walk around the town. Our last afternoon and night finished with another great meal sitting on the sidewalk with some wine and street entertainment. An early night due to an early flight the next morning.

Quito is the capital of Ecuador which has a total population of approx 14mill. Language spoken is Spanish and Kichwa.

Quito is the capital of Ecuador which has a total population of approx 14mill.
Language spoken is Spanish and Kichwa. English is widely spoken
Main cities are Quito, Quayaquil and Cuenca. Currency is USDollars.

Quito is a city where modern architecture meets the beauty and the strength of colonial buildings. On first arriving it appears a little old and poor but when you look more carefully the creativity can be seen everywhere. After settling into our hotel, we took a walk around the nearby streets and parks. Quite modern and everything you may want is available. We went to the large impressive museum, there was a couple of very interesting exhibitions and the grounds are quite beautiful. We then wandered through the expansive central park looking at the artworks and the street performers all within a few city blocks of our hotel.

The following day we were guided by car and foot to the older side of Quito, visiting the well preserved colonial centre. We first stopped at the Virgin of the Panecillo, because whether religious or not it is something to behold. The view from the top shows the whole of Quito and beyond. Moving onto the tourist hotspot you are greeted with magnificently well preserved, grand buildings of intricate 16th century architecture. The Plaza de San Francisco is a huge area for the people to relax and mingle surrounded by churches and and many highly distinguished buildings. It has a party atmosphere and a great place to rest your tired limbs. Further on, a highlight was the “Church of the Society of Jesus” the interior richly decorated with gold ornamentation. It is overwhelming and one feels quite humble in its grandeur. Walking up and down the streets and alleys we saw some beautiful quaint little streets, dotted with flower pots and colourful flags. Continuing on, we came across plenty of cafes, boutique shops, more churches and the occasional park. Many hills later, we arrived back at our hotel pretty exhausted.

More walking the next day to see the “Basilica del Voto Nacional” the largest neo-Gothic basilica in the Americas, building began in 1892. A magnificent church with Gargoyles and spirals reaching to the heavens. Ken tells me the view from high in one of the spirals, reached via a dodgy looking bridge of scaffolding, and a steep ladder to the top, was worth the effort.

There is so much more to see and do in Ecuador. If time permits it would be good to stay for longer than a couple of days. That afternoon we organised our washing and packing, as we were off to Galapagos Island tomorrow. This very special place deserves a blog of its own so watch this space for Part 2.